#italywithJoe
#booktravelwithJoe
Revisiting Roscioli in Rome.

So....here you are in Rome, walking around Campo dei Fiori being jostled around by locals shopping, tourists taking endless photos and trattoria waiters trying to pull you in to their establishments. There are musicians, jugglers and assorted other street entertainers all vying for your attention. There are also the stall vendors, few of them still Italians, the others selling cheap Chinese made gadgets, mixed in with those selling fresh artichokes, puntarelle, tomatoes, jams, honey and a large variety of original and artisanal goodies.

There are some decent food establishments there, but my favorite is down a side street ensconced behind an anonymous door where you often see people standing outside waiting to be ushered in, on Via dei Giubbonari.

Why the interest? After all, it's just another salumeria (deli) in Rome.

Ah.....not just another, it's THE salumeria/ bar/ restaurant in the area that should not be missed. I have at least one meal there each time I visit.

It's a small establishment with a long glass case on the left side displaying exotic cheeses, salumi and other wonderful gourmet products. On the right and alongside the glass display case are small tables for two...I've never seen one of them empty!

Walking past the display case , a small bar on the left and then more tables in a small room in the back. Directly across from the bar a wall filled with glass jars enclosing the most delectable speciality food items for sale, rare tuna, minuscule artichokes, coffee, sardines, all displayed "Tiffany like" as if it were jewelry..and priced accordingly!!

But here, as like anything else, you get what you pay for and the quality of all products is non pareil.

The place is supreme choreography , as if Twyla Tharp herself had orchestrated it.

Expert salumieri behind  the case slicing, prepping, both for in house customers as well as for those taking cold cuts and cheeses home. The baristas pouring wine, liquors and making espresso, cappuccino with no pause. Waiters moving back and forth between the tight fitting tables, running to the kitchen to pick up the hot dishes, returning to the dirty dish drop off area, picking up fresh burrata or mozzarella by the front case, juggling dishes, drinks, trying to avoid bumping into customers coming and going, all in a very tight space. It is a recipe for disaster which never seems to happen...it is like watching a theatrical performance, well rehearsed and choreographed. The background soundtrack provided by happy patrons enjoying the food and drinks, the clinking of glasses and silverware, and the friendly exchanges between everyone in the place. 

But the reason for being here is the food: one would only imagine being able to order a sandwich or a plate of cheeses and prosciutto, or burrata and fresh tomatoes, but the surprise is that they are able to prepare some of the best pastas in town. I had cacio e pepe during this last visit...absolutely perfect in its simplicity! No " Alfredo sauce" here ( or anywhere else in Italy for that matter) what the heck is that stuff anyway?

They will also make matriciana or carbonara. The typical Roman pasta dishes but made with only the very best ingredients. The menu choices are vast and all excellent.

At the end of the meal, they present you with several home made cookies along with a chocolate dipping sauce.....divine!!

I write this with some apprehension, because as busy as Roscioli is, I would hate to have to wait an even longer time for a table next time,  once all of you catch on to this gem. But I share this with my readers, as this year's  Christams gift to all of you!

Buone Feste......Buon Appetito!

Www.salumeriaroscioli.com

Via dei Giubbonari 21/22

ROMA

BIG AL FOOD & BEVERAGE, Rome.

The restaurant scene in the "eternal city" has been evolving for centuries, at times at an extremely slow pace, however in the last few years, things have been accelerating at an unusually quick pace. While Milan has always been considered at the forefront of Italian innovation, Rome is finally catching up with the rest of the culinary world! Alongside the family owned, traditional trattorie, osterie, ristoranti we are now seeing a new crop of inventive bistros, eateries, food joints that are both innovative and brilliant in concept. 

Long gone is the idea of checkered tablecloths, straw encased bottles of Chianti, surly "mature" waiters and limited menu offerings.

Enter Big Al, a bustling modern venue with a young energetic chef , Emiliano Lopez, at the helm.... Argentinean by birth, and after more than 20 years in Italy, Italian by osmosis. Located in the upscale residential neighborhood of Parioli, attracting a mix of well healed Romans, discriminating tourists and some celebrities, this is rapidly becoming one of the "in" places to be and be seen.

The extensive menu is a mix of the expected traditional Italian fare, alongside newer offerings that at times push the envelope, but never forget the origins of the ingredients which are always locally sourced, treated with respect and presented artfully.  The wine list is more than impressive, and will satisfy all tastes and  yes..pocketbook.

The waiters are young, energetic, very knowledgeable of each and every dish (this thanks to the direction and leadership of chef Lopez) but are never intrusive or pushy.

The decor is quirky yet comfortable. The large screen TV's  anchor the room  while running a loop of vintage black and white films  from the 50's and 60's reminiscent of the Al Capone era .....therefore the name Big Al.

A sweet finish is not to be neglected at this wonderful restaurant. With the help and intuitive acumen of noted pastry chef Paola Azzolina, the deserts do not disappoint, rather they follow the same direction as the savory menu: a mix of traditional and deconstructed traditional, sprinkled with fantasy and surprising presentation.

This venue excites and satisfies all the senses without pretense or fake showmanship.

Chef Lopez will also design vegetarian or kosher dishes upon request.

Reservations are a must, as is a visit when in Rome. You won't be disappointed!

Buon appetito!

                   Big Al Food and Beverage

Viale dei Parioli, 79, 00197 Roma, Italy
+39 06 808 






See inside
Street View
Photos
BIG AL FOOD AND BEVERAGE S.R.L., Roma - RM - Ristoranti ...

PALAZZO MANFREDI, ROME

#italywithJoe
#booktravelwithJoe
Palazzo Manfredi, Roma

I travel  to Italy frequently and eventually, no matter the region I am visiting, a stop in Rome, city of my birth, is inevitable. Each time I try to spend a couple of nights in different hotels, ones I had never overnighted in , to better understand how they work, how both the physical structure , the rooms, the food services  and the overall feeling would appear to my prospective clients.

Palazzo Manfredi, a five star luxury hotel was a truly outstanding surprise for me. This is a unique structure which deserves consideration for any discriminating traveler spending time in Rome. Here I will borrow and quote from their website, because I could not write this any better or more correctly, and to allow my reader to understand the history behind the palazzo....

"The splendid building of the Palazzo Manfredi began life in the 17th century as the villa of the Evangelisti family, designed by architect Giovanni Battista Mola. It then passed to the Venerabile Confraternita della Ss Trinità dei Pellegrini e dei Convalescenti (Venerable Fraternity of the Holy Trinity of Pilgrims and Convalescents), as commemorated by the two stones on the façade. 

The villa was completely rebuilt in the 18th century, becoming the hunting lodge of the noble Guidi family and, from 1748, this area was known as “Giardino Guidi”. 

In 2002, the villa was purchased by Count Goffredo Manfredi, one of Italy’s most famous entrepreneurs and construction magnates and, thanks to him, Palazzo Manfredi, our superb luxury hotel, was born. In commemoration of the past, and of the distinction of the noble Manfredi family, you can still read today two Latin inscriptions on the turret, “Fortuna duce”, with fortune as guide, and “Virtute Comite”, with virtue as companion, quoting Cicerone’s famous maxim."

As you can now see, and because this is Rome  after all, behind every façade, there is a long history. Entering the lobby, one is immediately warmly greeted as if indeed entering a private abode. To the right a welcoming check in desk, to the left a cozy library with comfortable couches. The brief interview upon check in is to ascertain one's personal needs while staying; pillow choice, favorite newspaper , special requests etc... The structure has been decorated with great taste and fine artwork. It is immaculately maintained and while there, I noticed someone cleaning and polishing the common areas at all times of the day.

The rooms are spacious and very technologically advanced, with touch button window screens, flat screen TV's , some hidden behind mirrors, modern efficient bathrooms and every amenity one can possibly imagine. It is modern, encased in the ancient, yet comfortable, welcoming and yes..cozy and cocooning!

What makes this hotel quite unique and impossible to imitate is its proximity to the Coliseum. I had the privilege and honor in staying in the "Colosseo suite" with several windows facing directly the ancient structure, while just below my windows I could see the ancient "locker rooms" used by the gladiators, and excavated only a few decades ago.  A set of views which will forever be emblazoned in my memory.

While not all rooms offer that spectacular view, all other views are of the areas adjacent to the Coliseum.....spectacular in their own right.

The fifth floor rooftop is a must visit, whether staying at the hotel or not. No other building can offer this unique view. The rear facing terrace is occupied by a small bar and comfortable seating, while the portion facing the Coliseum is used for guests' breakfast in the morning, then lunch or dinner for both hotel guests or the public, meals prepared by a Michelin starred chef.

The restaurant and bar staff is attentive, professional, accommodating and the top in their field. 

This is not a cookie cutter mass market venue, rather this is a luxurious, private enclave with a past and even a future. The owners have purchased an adjacent building which will be connected to the original palazzo by a private walkway and a courtyard. The new suites will all face the Coliseum, giving more visitors the option of having a unique stay while in the eternal city, and increasing the number of rooms  yet maintaining the level of luxury and privacy. Although the restructuring work on the adjacent building was going on while I was there, it was being done in a manner which was imperceptible and not intrusive at all. Not noticeable unless one looked out a side window from a guest room. 

If looking to being pampered, enveloped by modern luxury and resting one's head a stone's throw from a monument thousands of years old, this indeed is the only choice in Rome!

A personal thanks to Hotel Manager Mr. Bruno Papaleo for hosting me and introducing me to this beautiful hotel. 

An additional note: if you contact me to book this hotel, I will be able to provide you with an e try VIP amenity and possible upgrade, if available.

To book: jgandolfo143@gmail.com

Www.palazzomanfredi.com

Via Labicana 125

00184. Roma

Tel. 06 77591380

#italywithJoe
#booktravelwithJoe

RELAIS CARLO V.

GALLIPOLI (Salento, Puglia)

One cannot deny the richness of Puglia's cultural offerings, coupled with a topography enriched with a diverse coastline on three sides, stunning inner land towns and hundreds of thousands of ancient olive trees still producing olives and therefore its by product : olive oil. 

The Salento region of Puglia is a culture within a culture with its own geographical area in the most southernmost portion of Italy's heel. Some of the cities and towns that must not be missed are Lecce, Gallipoli, Nardò amongst many others.

In this post I want to showcase an outstanding small hotel in Gallipoli.

Gallipoli is considered by most as a summer beach destination, but it is much more than that. Actually it is a town with three distinct sections: the beach strip and its neighborhood, the ancient walled town and bay, and finally the more "modern" shopping and residential area.

Relais Carlo V resides in the latter of the three, yet just a 10 minute leisurely walk to the  historical ancient part of town.  One needs to understand that the adjective " modern" must be placed in a different chronological sphere when speaking of Italy! This former private residence is far from contemporary, rather it is a traditionally old world town-home nestled just a few steps off the main shopping drag called  Corso Roma.

It is ensconced behind a huge wooden  door, which opens to a surprisingly bright and airy courtyard leading to a magnificent white staircase which in turn leads to the main floor of the home featuring the guest rooms as well as the breakfast room and a spectacular terrace.

The 8 rooms are all different one from the other, but their common denominator is spaciousness, airiness and brightness, high ceilings, modern efficient bathrooms and some of the most comfortable beds and pillows I've had the pleasure of resting my head on. Some of the rooms even boast jacuzzis and loft spaces.

The highest compliment one may bestow on a hotel is not about  the beauty of the rooms, or the amenities one can find there, but in my subjective view it is the way one is welcomed and made to feel while there. On that count Relais Carlo V receives my highest accolades!

You will feel at "home" while residing there. You will meet Antonella and Elena and shy "Ciccio" who will pamper you, advise you, meet your every request and needs  with a genuine smile and courteous generosity. 

This is definitely a recommended place to lay one's head after touring around Salento, eating in its many succulent kitchens and lingering in one of hundreds of street side cafés....adult beverage in hand!

It has instantly become one of my favorites!

LA ZANZARA...Rome's newest hangout!

#italywithjoe
#booktravelwithJoe


While in the US a great cocktail bar may not be synonymous with equally scrumptious food, in Rome this is certainly not the case.

Take for example the bustling tavern in the Prati neighborhood of Rome: La Zanzara.

At first impact, this could be Soho in NY, or The Marais in Paris or one of many trendy spots in London. The young  well heeled, energetic  crowd gathered around the elongated bar are gregarious and animated as they enjoy uniquely concocted cocktails. 

Moving beyond the bar area, are closely gathered tables crowded with equally well attired Roman professionals, enjoying either the small dishes  or the main courses and specials offered from the extensive menu.  There are burgers, but also burrata...simple salads but also carbonara. The mood is upbeat, the drinks uniquely satisfying, the food exceptional.

What more can one ask? This is Rome, the eternally evolving city!

http://www.lazanzararoma.com/en/

Rome: SPLENDIDE ROYAL HOTEL

Splendide Royal Roma
#italywithJoe
#booktravelwithJoe

I had the pleasure recently to spend a couple of nights in the Splendide Royal Hotel and I must say every aspect of my visit exceeded all expectations.

This is truly a "home away from home" , albeit a baroque palace from the 18th century

transformed from a unique private residence into an intimately elegant boutique hotel literally in the center of bustling Rome.

The lobby and common areas on the ground floor are more reminiscent of a residence rather than a hotel, and the familiarity is further enhanced by the incredible warmth and friendliness of the staff who take the time to acknowledge each guest by name with graciousness and a genuine smile.

One is immediately surrounded by a sense of history, from the portraits of important religious and historical personages, to the rare Murano chandelier hanging quite prominently in the lobby area, which could easily be alluded to as the palace's " living room", such is the intimacy of this elegant property.

The rooms are airy, bright and larger than average for a city hotel. Every aspect of the guest's comfort and expectations has been considered including such small but important touches as multiple plug outlets with built in adapters for electronic gadgets, and spacious efficient bathrooms with upscale amenities throughout. The attention to the guests' comfort continues to such details as an above average turn down service providing bottled water, a weather forecast for the following day, an elegantly wrapped sweet, bedroom slippers and floor mat.

The Crystal room on the sixth floor is a pleasant surprise, offering a panoramic  view of Rome while enjoying a fresh, varied and plentiful breakfast. The staff here also is attentive yet unobtrusive.

The absolute crown on this rather regal structure is however the ubiquitous Mirabelle restaurant on the seventh floor. Here again the personal and elegant touches provided personally by the owners, makes this a "must see, must experience" feature. The sense of intimacy and familiarity continues here, enhanced by top notch service, drinks and food prepared by very capable barmen, and a superb chef. However it is the breathtaking panoramic birds eye view of the Eternal City that will forever change one's perception of what mundane hotel dining could be.

Guests here are invited to share the award winning spa at its sister property Parco dei Principi hotel, via a free shuttle. This too an additional perk.

This elegant palace is literally steps away from the Spanish steps, shopping and bustling crowds, yet it is ensconced on a side street secluded enough to provide a quiet oasis from the raucous masses.

ROME'S PARCO DEI PRINCIPI HOTEL

As a travel planner for several decades first for Empress Travel/Cavalcade Tours, now American Express, Italy has always been the primary destination for my various clients.

As a native of Rome and an Italy specialist, I know that being in a central city location, yet away from the cacophony of Roman life is the ideal solution for the discriminating traveler.

Parco dei Principi Hotel has evolved in the last few years from a primarily business and group oriented hotel, into  the the "urban resort" par excellence it has now become.

The recent upgrades and careful retouches  have transformed this  structure into the premier hotel it always was meant to be. From the rich yet subtle touches of traditional furnishings coupled with modern functional bathrooms, each room category offers the guests either a breathtaking view of Rome's unique panorama, or a glimpse of the historic rooftops adjacent to the vast Villa Borghese gardens. 

The common rooms are vast, welcoming and well appointed, the bar and dining venues exclusive yet comfortable, allowing the  guest  to feel special yet at ease.

The Michelin starred chef joining the restaurant staff will further enhance the uniqueness and  gastronomic importance of the hotel.

Last but not least, the recently awarded urban spa, carefully ensconced below ground, adjacent to the main building of the hotel is a destination onto itself. Being named the very best hotel spa in Europe by Conde Nast is well deserved and no small feat.

Hotel guests have free access and are welcomed by a professional, friendly staff who meticulously guide the first time visitor to the myriad of options offered by the huge, elegant complex.

A unique feature, a rare one at that in the city of Rome, is the vast outdoor swimming pool, nestled in an intimate park which also features the remnants of an ancient Roman aqueduct.

An outdoor bar/ casual restaurant completes the total resort feeling of the hotel.

Parco dei Principi is truly a stand out amongst the handful of luxury hotels in Rome.It is the only centrally located luxury urban oasis in the eternal city

Roman lounges & grazing places.

#italywithJoe
#bookitalywithJoe

ROME.....it can be disorienting, frustrating and downright maddening sometimes trying to find a real local spot to sit, sip, knosh and chat.
There are many good ones, but also many tourist traps serving  mediocre wine and unappetizing food. "In Rome?" you say with shock in your voice. Unfortunately yes.
Every time I roam the streets of my native city I am amazed at the proliferation of touristy shops selling "made in China" trinkets, gelaterie selling artificially flavored gelato, and pubs filled with drunken students doing their best to feel like they never left home. Why? You're in the Eternal City...when in Rome, do as the Romans do.  A  cliche' perhaps, but still good advice.
With my friends and family members still living there, I am fortunate to be introduced at each visit, to the best of the best and the newest gems in the eno-gastronomic realm. Not all of these emporiums may appeal to the generic tourist, but each offer a unique culinary experience reserved for the open minded and discriminating palate not looking for the Olive Garden experience they left behind.
Sifting through the good and not so good, I have chosen just a few to introduce to you in this posting, in no particular order or preference. However, they are all located in the same central area of Rome near Piazza di Spagna ( the Spanish Steps), the premier shopping area for Italian fashion.
You've been shopping, trying on shoes, buying shirts, ties, bags gifts. Your hands are carrying multiple shopping bags and your feet hurt, you're thirsty and just a bit hungry, but not for a full dinner yet.

Tartufi & Friends is a little spot, meticulously decorated  specializing in all things truffle and of course bubbly. How bad can that be? They also sell many unique products, all based on truffles, so you can continue to shop while you indulge in their delicacies.
The place is cramped but exquisite. The feeling I had was almost of sitting in an enormous hand made piece of Luis Vuitton luggage, maybe because of the dominant colors in the decor. All  drinks and food are placed on large silver trays with leather handles...quite special! They serve Prosecco as well as champagne and Cava. Their appetizer  dishes are tasty,  small and satisfying, although one can also order dinner size meals, particularly pastas or risottos with truffles. Expensive.
Tartufi & Friends. Via Borgognona 4E. 9am-11pm

A more low key casual establishment is L'Antica Enoteca.
Bustling with locals, especially later at night, this is the closest thing to what Americans may consider a "hang out" bar. However, remember you are still in Rome, so the offerings are all locally sourced and sophisticated compared to the American idea of finger food. An array of cheeses and cured meats on a platter, offered with crusty bread is a great  pre dinner choice. Accompany it all with a glass of local wine and you are in Roman heaven. Again, because you are in Italy, the menu will also allow you to order freshly made pastas and other dishes as well.
I would choose this as a late night after dinner spot, a place to people watch, enjoy a good glass of vino or a grappa and maybe a pastry or other sweet, before ensconcing back to your hotel room.
Antica Enoteca  Via Della Croce 76b. 12pm- 1am

Another casual place I enjoyed is Sorpasso. "Wine & kitchen" Is their slogan... Therefore a true wine bar with food. Simple enough yet outstanding in its simplicity.
But it's more than that: you can stop in for a cappuccino and pastry in the morning ( please don't order cappuccino after 11am...a faux pas!)  A quick snack at lunchtime or in the afternoon. Dinner in the evening. Late snack, after hours.
All fresh, all good, all very casual.
Sorpasso. Via Properzio 31. 7:30am-1am

Normally in Italy it is best to order seafood along the coast, in towns located closest to the water, however there are always exceptions. Acquasalata is one of them. Literally meaning "salty water" this place is for fish, and only fish. Not worth ordering anything else.
The place is bright and airy, looking almost like it ought to belong somewhere on the isle of Capri, rather than the urban chaos of Rome. I seldom see the inside of restaurants in Rome, however, since sitting outside and watching the spectacle of the people walking by along with the cacophony of motorbikes, sirens, loud conversations and children playing is the real theater experience in Rome  after all.
The menu can be confusing,  so if you're uncomfortable allowing the fish monger choose for you, this may not be the place for you. Expect each dish to be fresh, simply prepared and delicious. The place is moderately expensive but refreshing glass of white wine or two will help take the edge off.
It is also a lounge, so a glass of champagne and a couple of oysters can be a nice late night reason for stopping by (€8). A bargain by Roman standards.
Acquasalata  Fish & Lounge.     Via della Croce 68/69.  9:30am-11:30pm

**************************************************************************************************

And now, I want to mention a brand new addition to the Roman gastronomic scene.
I have yet to dine there since it is a recent opening, but I feel very comfortable proposing it since it comes highly recommended from my own family living in Rome, as well as local connoisseurs who know the chef and his reputation for offering the freshest, updated classic dishes with a verve for an esthetically precious presentation. This establishment is in the high end residential neighborhood of Parioli, easily reached from most center city hotels. Along with an aggressively Roman cuisine, they have an extensive and varied wine list.
I am looking forward to dining there the very next time I am in Rome. If you get there before me, please share your candid impressions with me. It is appreciated.
Big Al Food & Beverage   Viale  Parioli 79
 Cin-Cin everyone!

THE HOT SUMMER MONTHS IN ITALY...WORTH VISITING?

The fact that in ancient times there were only 10 months on the calendar, ending with Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec (respectively 7, 8, 9 and 10) raises the question...were they trying to avoid including  the brutal summer months in the ancient Roman Empire? Of course that's just a rhetorical and senseless question, but wanted to get you thinking!
The month of July, named after Julius Caesar, came into effect in 709 A.U.C. , or from the founding of Rome. In more modern terms, it was 45 B.C.
After Julius' grandnephew Augustus defeated Marc Anthony and Cleopatra and became Emperor of Rome aka as "god" (Trump is really jealous!!!!), the Roman Senate decided he too should have a month named after him. Not only did he get his own month, but they gave him 31 days, just like granduncle Julius..how even handed of them! However, in order to make this adjustment, February, which just happens to be the month of my birth, was reduced,, albeit sporadically, to just 28 days.


Now that we have some background history out of the way, let's examine the months of July and August as they relate to travel in the Mediterranean countries and more specifically Italy (or whatever little is left of the former Roman Empire).
When advising clients who  must travel in summer because of work schedules, I always suggest July over August. August has become in more modern times, the Socialist Eurozone's gift to workers.
August 15 (FERRAGOSTO), is the biggest holiday of the year and it encompasses the week before and after the 15th in most cases.
Most people get one month paid vacation and if you are left in the various urban centers at that time you will be part of one of several categories:
 a)You are unemployed and therefore cannot afford to leave
 b)You are elderly, collecting a tiny fixed pension and your families don't want to bother taking you    along for the fun and games,
c)You are part of a small group of workers in the emergency services and you drew the short straw.
d)You actually decided against all odds to remain in the urban caldron despite having the means to escape. Call the medics immediately...this one is lacking oxygen in the cranium!!


So, what's left in Rome, Florence, Venice and all other large cities? Tourists. And..more tourists.
Meanwhile the Italians are crowded like sardines covering every inch of available space on the beaches, and they are not a happy lot. Getting to the beaches meant enduring hours of endless traffic jams on highways and smaller roads leading to the sandy or rocky shores. Others, headed in the opposite directions, are headed to the hills where the cooler air offers respite from the burning sun, but encountering the very same traffic jams before arriving at their destinations.
Just as an example, a day trip from Rome to the Amalfi Coast could mean spending 10 hours in a car enjoying the view of the backs of other cars, while having a very limited time at the destination.
Maybe that's why Italians stay for a month, after arriving at their vacation destination.


Back in the cities, many will be disappointed in finding many of  their favorite restaurants closed, half the pharmacies, many family owned stores, and even some museums and monuments inaccessible because of skeleton staff. Even medical services are at a premium. Yes the streets will be less crowded and traffic lighter, but what you will miss is partly the reason you go to Italy in the first place: the cultural experience of seeing and encountering locals as they go about their daily activities, shopping in the markets, gathering at coffee shops, having their evening "passeggiate", actually hearing Italian spoken rather than the familiar American slang, or British, German, Japanese and others for that matter.


If you must go in August, plan ahead, know what to expect but most of all avail yourself of the trustworthy advice of an expert, someone, like myself, who knows the country and its nuances. There are still ways to enjoy Italy in August and avoiding some of the pitfalls and disappointments.


Buon Viaggio e....buone vacanze estive a tutti!! 

ITALY IN CRISIS
It gives me no pleasure to write the following, but I find it necessary to keep travelers informed and prepared prior to arriving in Italy.
I watch Italian TV news and read Italian newspapers and magazines regularly. Why you may ask? Because if I claim to be an "Italian specialist" I must be aware not just of what is happening in the tourism sector, but also what is going on socially in the country.
The US media has largely ignored the news, possibly thinking it is a local event not worthy of coverage. Here it is: Italy is being inundated by illegal immigrants coming mostly across the waters from Libya in rafts, boats, and any vessel which will float long enough to enter Italian waters. They are then rescued by the Italian Coast Guard, Italian Red Cross and other humanitarian groups. There are thousands of these people arriving DAILY,  who allegedly ( by European community agreements) just want to pass through and be welcomed in France, Germany, Britain etc.  The reality is that those aforementioned countries, part of the European Community, are refusing entrance to these illegal immigrants once they see they have no documents or any way of identifying themselves. A bottleneck is therefore created ; these people are dumped at major train stations where they sleep, relieve themselves, block passages and essentially create  a nuisance.
They have also been loaded on buses and simply dumped in the center of towns, villages, cities without forewarning the local authorities and most importantly the citizenry. No place to sleep, no food, no facilities...and you can just imagine the ensuing chaos. The majority of the illegals are claiming they must leave their countries of origin because of ongoing civil wars. Although this may be partly true, the danger is that hidden amongst the elderly, the women, the children, are physically fit young males who could also be terrorists eager to infiltrate the now borderless European community.  Political correctness is such, that very few politicians in Italy are willing to do much to stop the influx, rather they are very willing to pocket the millions of euros Brussels sends to care for the emergency needs of this human avalanche. A huge political scandal has erupted in Rome recently with allegations that politicians of the highest levels have enriched themselves personally, while ignoring the chaos being created in their localities.
Just this week the Tiburtina station in Rome and the Central Station in Milano resemble more encampments one would normally see in third world  war torn countries, than a civilized Western metropolitan area.
All this could be elaborated at length but my reason for publishing this is mostly for my clients who entrust me to create their trips.
If you should decide to book your own trips via the internet,you will NOT be made aware of areas you should avoid while traveling. You will NOT have prior warnings about civil unrest which could ruin your vacation. You may end up choosing a  hotel or an apartment in an undesirable part of town, you may unknowingly travel on a certain train line notorious for petty theft and other criminality.
My role is to be aware of all current events and to prepare, forewarn and protect the travelers who entrust me with their trip planning.
Italy is a WONDERFUL country, it can be very safe for adults and children alike, it is obviously filled with ancient as well as contemporary  culture one can find in no other country in the world. With some suggestions and guidance from an expert, you can be helped in navigating the many restaurants and food venues safely, avoiding the ones that could disappoint and take advantage of your lack of knowledge. I may suggest you NOT rent a car in certain regions, while in others I would encourage it. I can explain why a private tour, vs a group one. My expertise is far ranging.
I have letter after letter from clients thanking me for the suggestions, the planning, the hotels chosen, the transportation arranged, and the fair pricing commensurate with the services provided.
The expertise of a good travel agent can be invaluable, the reliance on the anonymous web could be disastrous.....choose wisely!!

Hyatt with a "Z"


Hyatt Corporation's foray into the all-inclusive market began in Mexico and is now delving aggressively into other geographical locations, Jamaica being the latest.
They purchased the former Ritz Carlton, the grande dame of Montego Bay, and worked feverishly to transform it into their "Z" branded resort.
All good intentions aside, what has emerged is a mix of new and old, with enough categories to confuse everyone, including travel professionals.
First, let's distinguish between the names: Ziva is family inclusive, while Zilara is adults only. Simple enough, right? Well...not so much.

Hyatt Ziva occupies the physical space of the former Ritz Carlton. The decor is mostly unchanged, except an almost undistinguishable face lift.  The rooms are spacious, the bathrooms marble, but the furnishings along with the hallways and elevators are reminiscent of the past, rather than the future. With the addition of a brand new building offering more modern and therefore contemporary accommodations, it has created a new option which will please those like myself, who enjoy the modern and fresh, with lighter wall and furniture as well as fabrics in monochromatic and more subtle colors.
This new building faces a courtyard with comfortable lounge style seating , a bar in the center as well as the majority of the restaurants serving both Ziva and Zilara guests.
Zilara guests, therefore, have to ambulate to Ziva for most of their dining.

Hyatt Zilara, is mostly new construction, and is accessible from Ziva both via a maze of internal corridors and elevators as well as from exterior passages.
Any adult residing in Ziva has full access to Zilara, except for the scarce dining venues there, where one's room number will determine one's admittance.
I said mostly new construction, because inexplicably, one wing of Zilara is actually a part of one of the original older buildings and shares both Ziva and Zilara rooms.
Talk about confusing. You could reserve a room at Zilara, thinking this is the newest part of the resort, and end up in an older wing, with the more traditional furnishings!
A good travel agent ( get the hint?) can help you navigate through all this!

Ziva has two large pools  one with swim up bar, and the common areas are therefore more spacious and welcoming, while Zilara has a smaller pool, also housing the ubiquitous swim up bar. But when pool exercises are taking place, there is scant room for lounging unobstructed. Ziva, with its  more expansive pool areas is a better choice, despite the younger ones frolicking about.

Let's talk beach.....or what beach?
Unfortunately there are only two small beach areas. The one in front of Zilara is quite rocky and unpleasant to the feet. The one in front of Ziva is smoother, yet quite small and shallow....almost a very large kiddie pool!  When Ritz managed this property they gave guests the option of using a nearby beach club for a better swimming experience. Hyatt does not offer that option.

The branding of any hotel product is as important to both consumers and sellers as almost any other component being offered. Hyatt , just like Ms. Minelli, went with the "Z".
Every venue in the resort therefore must have a "z" incorporated in its name.
A few examples:  Bar Fez, Italian restaurant De Roza, French restaurant Petite Pariz,
Islandz pool bar, Stirz piano bar..... See what I mean? I won't bore you with the rest, but it all becomes a bit un imaginative and contrived....oops I just saw a member of the Z Crew walking by ( yes the resort workers around the pool wear  t-shits proclaiming  their allegiance to the Z!!!!)

Food was very good overall, particularly the Italian DeRoza with its wood burning pizza oven and fresh offerings of pastas, seafood and meats.
The Brazil restaurant, a churrasqueria, not as satisfying to my personal taste. Some cuts of meat good, while others not so much.
Breakfast buffet is varied in its offerings, but ordinary at best.
Drinks seem to be mostly mediocre and watered down. Premium liquor drinks are only offered at the afore mentioned Stirz Piano bar, located in the lobby of Ziva, and at  most Zilara venues.  For an upscale resort, that is unfortunate.

What makes this resort special, are the Jamaicans themselves,  who perpetually go out of their way to acknowledge all guests and make them feel at home. They all place their right hand to their heart as they cross your path, coupled with an infectious smile and a warm greeting.
It is because of them Jamaica will always remain one of my very favorite destinations in the Caribbean. YA MON!
Hyatt has a good concept, which once refined, will enhance their brand(Z

Club Med Punta Cana
"it Takes A French Village....."

I had not visited a Club Med resort in well over 25 years, so when this recent opportunity presented itself, I immediately accepted the invitation to spend a few days at their Punta Cana location.
Arriving at the Punta Cana airport can sometimes  be both daunting and frustrating. The seemingly interminable line snakes around in a hangar like building with no air conditioning , finally spilling itself into another building, this time a thatched roof one where unsmiling officials take $10 cash from each arriving passenger, dispensing a small paper receipt, which is then checked by another "official" who tears it in half and then directs you to passport control. A mad dash for your luggage and then the search for your transfer guide, one of dozens holding hand written signs. I finally found the one I needed, holding a sign that read CLUD (sic)MED, written in bold blue marker.
However, you may experience a much smoother arrival experience, if you happen to land when yours is the only flight arriving at that particular time, as many of my fellow travelers informed me.

CLUB MED PUNTA CANA is located just a few minutes away from the airport and is located on a long stretch of pristine beach, shaded by tall palm trees and blessed with sea breezes which make the hours lounging poolside or on the beach much more tolerable and pleasant.
Unlike the Club Med resorts of yesteryear, and by that I mean the 1950's through the 1990's, the brand has evolved, modernized and upgraded in order to compete in this new world of all-inclusives  that did not exist when Club Med was busy creating the concept.
What was once a young adult camp filled with booze purchased with beads, and continual parties is now a brand that offers deluxe accommodations, private villas and activities for families and children.
In Punta Cana, you will find such a family centered resort, offering safe and organized activities catering to all ages, from 4 month old infants, to teens, divided into "baby club"  (4-23 months), "petit club"( 2-3 year olds)  "mini club" (4-10 years olds) , "pajama club" (4 month to 10 years old ...late night , at an extra fee) and even "passworld" categories for 11-17 year olds which is further subdivided appropriately by age.
The activities for children and adults seem infinite and provide something to do at every hour of the day and evening. Aside from the ubiquitous water sports, there are opportunities to play or learn to play tennis, soccer, bocce,archery, basketball, fly on a trapeze and also try other circus centric actions and contortions !  A new "Cirque du Solieil" activity center is in the works and will be completed by June, 2015.
Salsa dancing classes went on all afternoon on a deck, beachside, while others just sunbathed in tranquility under a palapa or a palm tree reading a book, sunbathing or people watching.
Last week while I was there, 69% of the visitors where almost evenly divided between French and Canadians, followed by Americans, Italians , Belgian, Swiss, and representatives from all parts of the world. That said the predominant language used throughout was French, closely followed by English and Spanish. I had fun using my French in communicating with the GO's as well as French speaking visitors.
The very large pool is the epicenter of the resort, flanked by a beautiful and large bar with lounge style seating perched several steps higher than the pool deck. This is the gathering place every evening before and after dinner, with piped music as well as lively DJ action with nightly line dancing straight out of the Club Med play book ( I remember those line dances a few decades ago when visiting a Club Med in Playa Blanca, near Puerto Vallarta).... Not much has changed. The Euro beat music is newer, the moves updated, time seems to have stopped but the fun is still universal!!
Of course there are nightly shows, which I confess did not have a chance to see.
Those who did, seemed to have enjoyed them tremendously!
Meals are all buffet style, served in one of two restaurants . I must say there were surprisingly exquisite dishes offered nightly, with enough variety to please all tastes and culinary expectations. One particular evening, chefs were making fresh pasta, cutting it into perfect ribbons of fettuccine and cooking it al dente ( unheard of at any buffet I ever saw before) , and the delicate choice of sauces were not over salted and delicious. At times one could find whole grilled fish, stir fry made to order, an array of meats and seafood, soups, salads and of course desserts.  There is no waiter service, except to offer you wine, beer , water or coffee; all else is self serve.
The rooms are basic and certainly not as luxurious as those one can find at other resorts. The standard rooms are motel grade and therefore basic. They seem to be located a bit further from the pool, beach and restaurants, while the deluxe rooms were better located and seemed to have a fresher feel, with upgraded amenities, a  mini refrigerator stocked with bottled water and soft drinks, also robes and slippers.
All room categories had a sitting room and small balcony or deck with seating.
There are also 32 beachfront villas with two bedrooms , in a mini gated area which boasts its own bar, snack offerings throughout the day and an infinity pool also beachfront. **** they have Nespresso machines with  a variety of pods !!
For me, personally, a super amenity!!!
The concept of this resort, unlike most others is that it is designed horizontally, alongside their private beach. If one should walk from one extreme side of the resort to the other, always beachfront, it could give you a nice aerobic workout!
While many other branded resorts may also be beachfront, their structures usually are built more inland giving clients less horizontal beach space.
All resorts have pluses and minuses. Club Med Punta Cana has many many pluses including an incredible beach, super friendly staff, tons of activities, great food overall and a real feel of European style hospitality albeit in the Caribbean.
I left out many details, but I want to leave some surprises for you to discover for yourselves on your next visit.
There are special offers periodically, so feel free to ask me and I can certainly help you become a part of the Club Med family!

Traditional Jewish Roman cuisine in Rome

 In a city of about 3.5 million people, the Jewish population in Rome is currently estimated at approximately 27.000.  By all accounts, a small number in light of the fact that this ethnic/religious group has been here over 2000 years, longer than any other community in Europe.

Sometime between the 1550's and the 1800's , the Jewish population was confined to the small geographical location in the center of Rome still called the Jewish ghetto, four gates or "Porte" defining the perimeter. This was a dark period yet one that gave rise to what is still enjoyed today as Roman Jewish street food.  During those three long centuries, they were limited in their access to many ingredients as well as the  means to prepare food, so they became experts as street vendors in the  "friggitori" style...... Therefore frying whatever they could get their hands on: carciofi alla giuda (artichokes), filetti di baccala' (codfish) , Fiori di zucca (zucchini flours), suppli' (known as rice balls elsewhere) etc.
Fast forward to 2015: you can't speak of Roman cuisine today without listing dishes from the Jewish tradition, just as you can't speak of Jewish Roman cuisine without invariably having to include the staples of Italian food. You would be surprised to find that many dishes considered typically "Italian" are actually modern reiterations from the Jewish-Roman kitchens.
I never leave Rome without having consumed at least one or more "carciofi alla giuda", a flash fried artichoke ( no batter) , with crispy leaves on the outside, yet  a tender bitter sweet heart....absolutely delicious. A sprinkle of sea salt accentuates and completes the unique taste.
One must note that despite many of the foods mentioned here are fried, they are never greasy or oily, rather they are battered in a light fluffy batter that crackles at the bite and leaves one satisfied, yet not unctuous; multiple napkins not needed!
Just this month I again enjoyed a great meal in this Roman neighborhood, located between the popular Campo dei Fiori and the banks of the River Tiber, just behind the beautiful Jewish Synagogue.  Because of the recent disturbances of late, police presence was obvious yet unobtrusive as I walked around. The many restaurants and kosher shops were bustling and filled with happy consumers and tourists alike.
Here is a partial list of some restaurants you should not miss on your next trip to Rome. These are all located on the same pedestrian street just a few steps from each other. You can certainly enjoy Roman -Jewish dishes in almost any restaurant in this city, but why not do it in the very location where they were created?
In no particular order or preference, here they are:


La Taverna Del Ghetto..Well, full disclosure, this one is a favorite!!!
Ba' Ghetto
Da Giggetto
Nonna Betta
Il Portico
Bella Carne

Grand Hotel Palace, Rome

GRAND HOTEL PALACE
Via Vittorio Veneto 70
00187. Roma, Italy

Boscolo Hotels suffer from too cutesy post modern decor....lots of shiny surfaces, in your face color schemes and supposedly edgy furniture. No longer in the Boscolo chain, this hotel has retained the decor but improved service. Large rooms, spacious bathrooms, big windows allowing natural light from the roman sun to enter and brighten things. Unfortunately despite its good location, Via Veneto is no longer the go to spot in Rome. Walk around in late evening and you will be accosted by street walkers, people trying to lure you into dubious night spots and you will have to go some distance to find a friendly coffee bar or shop. Many cafés are shuttered and some storefronts closed. The "dolce vita" has left decades ago. That said, it is probably one of the safest places to be in Rome, considering the American Embassy is directly across the street!
This is good solid choice for business travelers, but would not rate it highly for leisure consumers...there are too many better choices in the Eternal City.

View from my window.

ROMA SPOSA 2015 "Italian Wedding Experience"

The 27th edition of this yearly wedding expo called Roma Sposa (literally Rome Bride) was held once again at Rome's convention center called " Nuova Fiera di Roma", a complex of nondescript  hangars located midway between Fiumicino Airport and center city from January 15th to the 19th 2015.

Not knowing what to expect, our group of writers, bloggers, and journalists representing the USA, Great Britain, Israel and Russia entered the first of two pavilions and were immediately enveloped by an organized chaos resembling a middle Eastern souk. The cacophony of sounds emanating  from cheesy wedding singers, vendors inviting prospective customers into their booths as well as groups of families loudly opining about each display, welcomed us. Yes, this is how business is done in Italy! Leisurely, happily, sometimes loudly but ultimately seriously. The wedding business is a multi million Euro affair in Italy generating revenue for multiple enterprises and ultimately the government's coffers.

As we meandered through the intricate maze of corridors accompanied by organizers and representatives of the Fair, we could immediately see that transactions were actually taking place, contracts were being signed, and the futures of some families would eventually be legally and socially intertwined long before the actual wedding day and ideally long after.

As more and more foreigners choose Italy not only for their honeymoons, but also for their destination weddings, I want to make my readers aware that this event could be the ideal one stop shopping and planning destination for all things "wedding".
The eclectic array of vendors include the ubiquitous wedding gown displays, wedding planners, vintage cars and limousines, catering locations and reception halls, make up artists, restauranteurs, Travel agents, jewelers, purveyors of entertainment, real estate agents, furniture manufacturers, and yes even a real helicopter on display for those wanting to arrive in ultimate decadent style before entering their jacuzzi on wheels. Yes indeed, they went there...a full jacuzzi in a modified vintage American limo!
Twice daily fashion shows from various design houses showcasing the latest trends in wedding apparel for both men and women can be used both  as a reprise from the  barrage of visual and sensory overload, and a time to envision what style will most suit you and will best compliment your special day. I had no idea wedding gowns could be purchased in almost every color under the sun including black...goth wedding anyone? Some featured designers showed dual use gowns, which converted  from  the flowing floor length and traditional , into  lace shorts, or pant suits in time for the reception ; something for all tastes and budgets.

The most unique feature of the fair is "Wed Academy" ( I'm pretty sure they were not referring to Wednesday but I digress...).  This is a separate area where prospective couples can have one on one consultations with some of the top ranking experts in their respective fields, therefore cutting through the extraneous and focusing on the desires of the individuals who ultimately will spend a large portion of their savings for their one very special day.

For my readers and clients in the USA, I can serve as that liaison since unfortunately many of the vendor's command  of the English language is woefully lacking.
I have had experience in locating, booking and arranging all the services one may need for a wedding in Italy. I travel there frequently in order to network, make contacts and sift through what I feel may most appeal to American audiences.
From airline tickets to transfers, hotels and all services described above, feel free to contact me, your Italian concierge!