Hot or cold??

One of the most common questions I am asked by my clients when they travel to ITALY is: What kind of weather or temperatures can I expect? How should I plan when I pack?

I answer all my clients individually, and as specifically as I can since I know where and when they are traveling.

I will however take the opportunity here for some generic answers to those questions.

First of all, I am not a fan of alarmism when it comes to matters of nature and weather. I shudder when I hear: “ the coldest in memory” “the hottest ever recorded”, the stormiest, snowiest, etc..etc.. We have short memories and our lifespan on earth is relatively brief in the larger spectrum of time, and the newest instruments for measuring weather phenomena are a very recent innovation. Which begs the question, what are you comparing this year’s weather to? To a time when measurements and record keeping were not as sophisticated and therefore less accurate?

Weather is cyclical, giving us long periods of warming, and then other periods of cooling. Periods of more frequent and intense storms, and other periods of relative calm.

I’m now off my soapbox!

A basic knowledge of geography is helpful whenever traveling.

Italy enjoys its location anchored to the north by the snowy Alps, and sticking its toe (literally) in the mild Mediterranean waters to the south.

Think of it as a narrow piece of land,surrounded by water stretching from NY to Georgia. In summer it’s hot all over, with cooler spots on higher elevations. In winter it’s cold all over, with snow more prevalent in the north, but possible in the southern regions in rare cases, including in Sicily.

My least favorite month to travel in Italy is August, not only because it can be unbearably hot and humid, but also because most Italians close their businesses and go on vacations themselves. You will find many restaurants closed, as well as some shops. The art cities will be bustling with tourists, who in some cases will seem to outnumber the locals. You lose the local flavor, when surrounded by every nationality, but Italians. 

My favorite months are May and October for quite different reasons. In May it is usually pleasantly warm, so you can enjoy a dip in the Adriatic or Mediterranean, but you can also enjoy visiting monuments and tourist sites without having to endure oppressive heat. You don’t have to pack heavy sweaters or coats.

In October, the weather matches May, but you have the added benefit of the harvests, from olives to grapes. Truffles are prevalent, as are all the new productions of  salumi, cheeses, wine and olive oil to name a few. Another benefit, the latest season for fashion is always a bonus and an incentive for shopping.

In the winter months the chances of more frequent rains, sometimes quite heavy and causing flooding is higher. But there can also be very pleasant and sunny days with clear bright blue skies. Fewer tourists, therefore easier access to tourist sites without obnoxious crowds.

The shoulder season months (spring and fall) are a time when I suggest layering clothes, so that you can easily shed clothing items midday when it can be very warm, while adding those items back in the evening when cooler temperatures will prevail.

I also always suggest looking around at the Italians...follow their cue when dressing. They do it better than anyone on the planet.

Try not to stand out as a foreigner, both for safety reasons as well as for your own esthetic satisfaction. Pack light when you depart and buy clothing as you travel. You will be the envy of friends and family when you return with your purchases!

Contact me for your travel plans to Italy and for the most accurate and up to date suggestions!

WHY USE A TRAVEL PLANNER??

Use a travel professional who knows the ins and outs of Italy.  Know the facts about using a travel consultant and hire a good one who really knows the ins and outs of Italy!  

You may think that using a travel agent or travel professional is more costly, but this is in fact a complete misconception.  Travel agents are paid a commission off of products that you wouldn’t have access to otherwise, so they are not making money off of you but rather the suppliers or hotels that they may be recommending to you based on a great experience. It’s their intention to give you the best experience and believe us, organizing travel details and make things go smoothly from start to finish is a big task. 

Sure, maybe you can do it yourself, but definitely not with the same level of expertise and safety that somebody who specializes in this can do. 

#italywithjoe

TRANSPORATION IN ITALY

Considering that renting a car makes you more independent but also creates many limits: if you visit wine cellars in the countryside it is very easy to get lost, when you arrive in the city it is very difficult to find parking, if you drink a couple of glasses of wine or an average beer you will definitely exceed the limits of alcohol allowed by law and you cannot drive... For these reasons and for a more relaxed holiday, we always advise our guests to manage their transfers with a private driver.

• As a connection between the main cities (Milan, Venice, Florence, Rome and Naples) you can find  efficient, cost-effective and comfortable trains. On the other hand, we strongly advise you to not use local or regional trains, which are small, uncomfortable and often late.

• Trains and buses do go on strike quite often. The good news is that strikes are communicated in advance.

• Do not rent a car in Rome. There is a lot of traffic and few parkings, and you have to consider that the city is well served by the subway ("Metro").

• Do not rent a car in Florence. It’s a small city with lots of pedestrian zones. Plan on getting around on foot.

• You cannot rent a car in Venice because it is made up of islands surrounded by canals. You can get around Venice by foot or by boat, that’s it. There are no other options, so remember that when deciding how much luggage to bring.

• Traffic in Italian cities is terrible, so avoid driving inside the major Italian cities if at all possible.

• Many Italian cities have a Limited Traffic Zone, which is shortened to ZTL in Italian. If you enter the zone you’ll get a fine in the mail. This is not a tourist scam. Another reason to avoid driving in Italian cities.

• Parking in Italian cities can be a nightmare. If you must park in a city, use a paid parking garage.

• If you rent a car, beware of and understand international road symbols.

• You cannot flag taxis in Italy. You must either call the taxi to come and pick you up (and the meter will start running the minute you put down the phone) or find a taxi stand and take the first taxi in line. Make sure the meter is on – do not accept driver-dictated fares.

#italywithJoe
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An update from Rome....

The eternal city is eternally evolving, much too often in not such positive ways. The dirty streets getting dirtier, the already annoying abusive street vendors more brazen  and annoying, the homeless population more evident, and so on.

The one bright spot is definitely the food scene.

There are new venues not only offering inventive food offerings, but also innovative cocktails as well.

Here are three of them:

VOS 

www.VOSROMA.com

Opened recently by former employees of La Zanzara,in a great central location right off Via Del Corso,

This bright airy bar with several rooms housing tables including an inner courtyard garden setting is the new "in" place.

The drinks are elevated concoctions of spirits, mixed with great care and infused with herbs, aromatic oils, garnishes all perfectly balanced  and satisfying.

The food is not only good, but presented with a touch of artistry, so that each dish seems camera ready for that ubiquitous spot on Instagram!

Casual, inviting and delicious. A great addition to the legion of emporiums populating the Italian capital.

EMMA.    

www.emmapizzeria.com

If you follow my Facebook entries (Joe Gandolfo's Travel Page)

you are probably aware that Roscioli is one of my go to places every single time I am in Rome. You just can't get food that is more genuine, fresher, elegantly prepared and mouth watering.

The downside is that the venue is small, cramped and difficult to get into, unless yo go off hours or reserve a spot beforehand.

I ate lunch there again just yesterday!

Happy to announce that a new restaurant has opened called EMMA.

Not only is it an attractive new place, but smartly enough, it offers most of its creations using genuine Roscioli products.

Because this is a very large venue, you don't have to worry as much about getting a seat, however......a word of caution. Even here I recommend making a reservation, because when I dined there a couple of nights ago, the main room, which is quite large, was full and bustling with very happy diners. The food is extremely well prepared, the pizzas are as good as you can expect and the wine list is eclectic and varied.

This might just become a new personal favorite!

L'OSTERIA DI BIRRA DEL BORGO

www.osteria.birradelborgo.it

This is the newest addition to the very trendy Prati district of Rome.

Unusual in the fact that there is not a bottle of wine in sight! "Sacrilege", might be your first thought....an Italian restaurant and no wine? I can confirm: no wine!

However, this very modern cavernous space created by the famous pizza chef known simply as Bonci, offers not only dozens of artisanal and seasonal beers, but at the large bar, they make unusual cocktails all with a beer base.

The menu is very limited, mostly pizzas thicker than the very thin Roman style, yet light and airy. There are many variations,  from the usual toppings as well as quite unusual ones....all served cut in square pieces on a stone platter. 

There are also some pastas and even hamburgers.

The daily specials rotate and vary frequently.

The crowd is young, hip and very local.....few tourists here so far.

Since this venue remains open until 2AM, it is the perfect gathering place for hungry night crawlers particularly after the movies, a concert or an evening of dancing.

Not the typical Italian space, it almost looks like it should belong in London, New York or maybe Milan......yet this is the "new" Rome.

#italywithJoe
#booktravelwithJoe
Mt. ETNA

Have you always wanted to see a volcano up close? If reaching the summit of a volcano sounds exciting but at the same time too tiring, the Circumetnea railway might be perfect for you: since 1895 this panoramic train has linked Catania to the top of Mount Etna with its 110 kilometers (70 miles) of tracks circumnavigating and ascending towards the summit. The journey starts down by the shore, then the train climbs through olive and citrus groves, slowly working its way to the top. The higher you get, the more spectacular the views: the raw and untamed beauty of the volcano wows even the most jaded of travelers. Those who love pistachios should definitely plan to disembark in Bronte, where the best pistachios in Sicily come from. 

Windstar cruise

WINDSTAR STAR LEGEND, CARIBBEAN SAILING.
#booktravelwithjoe

It was my very fist time on a Windstar product and my expectations may have been a bit deflated after being on the Legend.

The crew onboard was incredibly friendly and solicitous, but the service at the bars and at dinner was many times uneven and lacking.

Many times dirty glasses and ashtrays were left on tables at the outdoor bar deck for hours before being removed and the tables cleaned, as an example.  Often I noticed guests doing the chore themselves.

The food overall was acceptable but I found most seafood  dishes were disappointing.....fish was often overcooked and dry.

Meat dishes were much better. Again waiters quite solicitous and willing to exchange dishes when asked ( something I did not do!)

The cabins were quite large and bathrooms efficient, but seemed a bit outdated and in need of renovation. In particular there was a lack of outlets  not requiring an adaptor, particularly for those like me needing to charge laptop, phones and chargers....one outlet in a large cabin just not enough! Having been made aware one needed adaptors would have been helpful.

The bathroom in my cabin had a bathtub with shower curtain....I am not a fan of shower curtains in hotels or sailing vessels, but that may be just my personal "Psycho" bias! The water pressure was seriously lacking, making it a bit of a chore rinsing soap from one's body.

The public rooms and center stairwell also seemed dated and "retro", not sure if left that way purposely as an homage to the clients who sailed her in her previous incarnation, or just because renovations were not done.

I know the Star Legend is an old vessel, and in desperate need of some tlc, so I am open  to trying one of the newer yachts in the fleet in the near future to experience what Windstar is truly capable of offering my clients!

#italywithJoe
#booktravelwithJoe
Revisiting Roscioli in Rome.

So....here you are in Rome, walking around Campo dei Fiori being jostled around by locals shopping, tourists taking endless photos and trattoria waiters trying to pull you in to their establishments. There are musicians, jugglers and assorted other street entertainers all vying for your attention. There are also the stall vendors, few of them still Italians, the others selling cheap Chinese made gadgets, mixed in with those selling fresh artichokes, puntarelle, tomatoes, jams, honey and a large variety of original and artisanal goodies.

There are some decent food establishments there, but my favorite is down a side street ensconced behind an anonymous door where you often see people standing outside waiting to be ushered in, on Via dei Giubbonari.

Why the interest? After all, it's just another salumeria (deli) in Rome.

Ah.....not just another, it's THE salumeria/ bar/ restaurant in the area that should not be missed. I have at least one meal there each time I visit.

It's a small establishment with a long glass case on the left side displaying exotic cheeses, salumi and other wonderful gourmet products. On the right and alongside the glass display case are small tables for two...I've never seen one of them empty!

Walking past the display case , a small bar on the left and then more tables in a small room in the back. Directly across from the bar a wall filled with glass jars enclosing the most delectable speciality food items for sale, rare tuna, minuscule artichokes, coffee, sardines, all displayed "Tiffany like" as if it were jewelry..and priced accordingly!!

But here, as like anything else, you get what you pay for and the quality of all products is non pareil.

The place is supreme choreography , as if Twyla Tharp herself had orchestrated it.

Expert salumieri behind  the case slicing, prepping, both for in house customers as well as for those taking cold cuts and cheeses home. The baristas pouring wine, liquors and making espresso, cappuccino with no pause. Waiters moving back and forth between the tight fitting tables, running to the kitchen to pick up the hot dishes, returning to the dirty dish drop off area, picking up fresh burrata or mozzarella by the front case, juggling dishes, drinks, trying to avoid bumping into customers coming and going, all in a very tight space. It is a recipe for disaster which never seems to happen...it is like watching a theatrical performance, well rehearsed and choreographed. The background soundtrack provided by happy patrons enjoying the food and drinks, the clinking of glasses and silverware, and the friendly exchanges between everyone in the place. 

But the reason for being here is the food: one would only imagine being able to order a sandwich or a plate of cheeses and prosciutto, or burrata and fresh tomatoes, but the surprise is that they are able to prepare some of the best pastas in town. I had cacio e pepe during this last visit...absolutely perfect in its simplicity! No " Alfredo sauce" here ( or anywhere else in Italy for that matter) what the heck is that stuff anyway?

They will also make matriciana or carbonara. The typical Roman pasta dishes but made with only the very best ingredients. The menu choices are vast and all excellent.

At the end of the meal, they present you with several home made cookies along with a chocolate dipping sauce.....divine!!

I write this with some apprehension, because as busy as Roscioli is, I would hate to have to wait an even longer time for a table next time,  once all of you catch on to this gem. But I share this with my readers, as this year's  Christams gift to all of you!

Buone Feste......Buon Appetito!

Www.salumeriaroscioli.com

Via dei Giubbonari 21/22

ROMA