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RELAIS CARLO V.

GALLIPOLI (Salento, Puglia)

One cannot deny the richness of Puglia's cultural offerings, coupled with a topography enriched with a diverse coastline on three sides, stunning inner land towns and hundreds of thousands of ancient olive trees still producing olives and therefore its by product : olive oil. 

The Salento region of Puglia is a culture within a culture with its own geographical area in the most southernmost portion of Italy's heel. Some of the cities and towns that must not be missed are Lecce, Gallipoli, Nardò amongst many others.

In this post I want to showcase an outstanding small hotel in Gallipoli.

Gallipoli is considered by most as a summer beach destination, but it is much more than that. Actually it is a town with three distinct sections: the beach strip and its neighborhood, the ancient walled town and bay, and finally the more "modern" shopping and residential area.

Relais Carlo V resides in the latter of the three, yet just a 10 minute leisurely walk to the  historical ancient part of town.  One needs to understand that the adjective " modern" must be placed in a different chronological sphere when speaking of Italy! This former private residence is far from contemporary, rather it is a traditionally old world town-home nestled just a few steps off the main shopping drag called  Corso Roma.

It is ensconced behind a huge wooden  door, which opens to a surprisingly bright and airy courtyard leading to a magnificent white staircase which in turn leads to the main floor of the home featuring the guest rooms as well as the breakfast room and a spectacular terrace.

The 8 rooms are all different one from the other, but their common denominator is spaciousness, airiness and brightness, high ceilings, modern efficient bathrooms and some of the most comfortable beds and pillows I've had the pleasure of resting my head on. Some of the rooms even boast jacuzzis and loft spaces.

The highest compliment one may bestow on a hotel is not about  the beauty of the rooms, or the amenities one can find there, but in my subjective view it is the way one is welcomed and made to feel while there. On that count Relais Carlo V receives my highest accolades!

You will feel at "home" while residing there. You will meet Antonella and Elena and shy "Ciccio" who will pamper you, advise you, meet your every request and needs  with a genuine smile and courteous generosity. 

This is definitely a recommended place to lay one's head after touring around Salento, eating in its many succulent kitchens and lingering in one of hundreds of street side cafés....adult beverage in hand!

It has instantly become one of my favorites!

LA ZANZARA...Rome's newest hangout!

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While in the US a great cocktail bar may not be synonymous with equally scrumptious food, in Rome this is certainly not the case.

Take for example the bustling tavern in the Prati neighborhood of Rome: La Zanzara.

At first impact, this could be Soho in NY, or The Marais in Paris or one of many trendy spots in London. The young  well heeled, energetic  crowd gathered around the elongated bar are gregarious and animated as they enjoy uniquely concocted cocktails. 

Moving beyond the bar area, are closely gathered tables crowded with equally well attired Roman professionals, enjoying either the small dishes  or the main courses and specials offered from the extensive menu.  There are burgers, but also burrata...simple salads but also carbonara. The mood is upbeat, the drinks uniquely satisfying, the food exceptional.

What more can one ask? This is Rome, the eternally evolving city!

http://www.lazanzararoma.com/en/

Rome: SPLENDIDE ROYAL HOTEL

Splendide Royal Roma
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I had the pleasure recently to spend a couple of nights in the Splendide Royal Hotel and I must say every aspect of my visit exceeded all expectations.

This is truly a "home away from home" , albeit a baroque palace from the 18th century

transformed from a unique private residence into an intimately elegant boutique hotel literally in the center of bustling Rome.

The lobby and common areas on the ground floor are more reminiscent of a residence rather than a hotel, and the familiarity is further enhanced by the incredible warmth and friendliness of the staff who take the time to acknowledge each guest by name with graciousness and a genuine smile.

One is immediately surrounded by a sense of history, from the portraits of important religious and historical personages, to the rare Murano chandelier hanging quite prominently in the lobby area, which could easily be alluded to as the palace's " living room", such is the intimacy of this elegant property.

The rooms are airy, bright and larger than average for a city hotel. Every aspect of the guest's comfort and expectations has been considered including such small but important touches as multiple plug outlets with built in adapters for electronic gadgets, and spacious efficient bathrooms with upscale amenities throughout. The attention to the guests' comfort continues to such details as an above average turn down service providing bottled water, a weather forecast for the following day, an elegantly wrapped sweet, bedroom slippers and floor mat.

The Crystal room on the sixth floor is a pleasant surprise, offering a panoramic  view of Rome while enjoying a fresh, varied and plentiful breakfast. The staff here also is attentive yet unobtrusive.

The absolute crown on this rather regal structure is however the ubiquitous Mirabelle restaurant on the seventh floor. Here again the personal and elegant touches provided personally by the owners, makes this a "must see, must experience" feature. The sense of intimacy and familiarity continues here, enhanced by top notch service, drinks and food prepared by very capable barmen, and a superb chef. However it is the breathtaking panoramic birds eye view of the Eternal City that will forever change one's perception of what mundane hotel dining could be.

Guests here are invited to share the award winning spa at its sister property Parco dei Principi hotel, via a free shuttle. This too an additional perk.

This elegant palace is literally steps away from the Spanish steps, shopping and bustling crowds, yet it is ensconced on a side street secluded enough to provide a quiet oasis from the raucous masses.

ROME'S PARCO DEI PRINCIPI HOTEL

As a travel planner for several decades first for Empress Travel/Cavalcade Tours, now American Express, Italy has always been the primary destination for my various clients.

As a native of Rome and an Italy specialist, I know that being in a central city location, yet away from the cacophony of Roman life is the ideal solution for the discriminating traveler.

Parco dei Principi Hotel has evolved in the last few years from a primarily business and group oriented hotel, into  the the "urban resort" par excellence it has now become.

The recent upgrades and careful retouches  have transformed this  structure into the premier hotel it always was meant to be. From the rich yet subtle touches of traditional furnishings coupled with modern functional bathrooms, each room category offers the guests either a breathtaking view of Rome's unique panorama, or a glimpse of the historic rooftops adjacent to the vast Villa Borghese gardens. 

The common rooms are vast, welcoming and well appointed, the bar and dining venues exclusive yet comfortable, allowing the  guest  to feel special yet at ease.

The Michelin starred chef joining the restaurant staff will further enhance the uniqueness and  gastronomic importance of the hotel.

Last but not least, the recently awarded urban spa, carefully ensconced below ground, adjacent to the main building of the hotel is a destination onto itself. Being named the very best hotel spa in Europe by Conde Nast is well deserved and no small feat.

Hotel guests have free access and are welcomed by a professional, friendly staff who meticulously guide the first time visitor to the myriad of options offered by the huge, elegant complex.

A unique feature, a rare one at that in the city of Rome, is the vast outdoor swimming pool, nestled in an intimate park which also features the remnants of an ancient Roman aqueduct.

An outdoor bar/ casual restaurant completes the total resort feeling of the hotel.

Parco dei Principi is truly a stand out amongst the handful of luxury hotels in Rome.It is the only centrally located luxury urban oasis in the eternal city

Roman lounges & grazing places.

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ROME.....it can be disorienting, frustrating and downright maddening sometimes trying to find a real local spot to sit, sip, knosh and chat.
There are many good ones, but also many tourist traps serving  mediocre wine and unappetizing food. "In Rome?" you say with shock in your voice. Unfortunately yes.
Every time I roam the streets of my native city I am amazed at the proliferation of touristy shops selling "made in China" trinkets, gelaterie selling artificially flavored gelato, and pubs filled with drunken students doing their best to feel like they never left home. Why? You're in the Eternal City...when in Rome, do as the Romans do.  A  cliche' perhaps, but still good advice.
With my friends and family members still living there, I am fortunate to be introduced at each visit, to the best of the best and the newest gems in the eno-gastronomic realm. Not all of these emporiums may appeal to the generic tourist, but each offer a unique culinary experience reserved for the open minded and discriminating palate not looking for the Olive Garden experience they left behind.
Sifting through the good and not so good, I have chosen just a few to introduce to you in this posting, in no particular order or preference. However, they are all located in the same central area of Rome near Piazza di Spagna ( the Spanish Steps), the premier shopping area for Italian fashion.
You've been shopping, trying on shoes, buying shirts, ties, bags gifts. Your hands are carrying multiple shopping bags and your feet hurt, you're thirsty and just a bit hungry, but not for a full dinner yet.

Tartufi & Friends is a little spot, meticulously decorated  specializing in all things truffle and of course bubbly. How bad can that be? They also sell many unique products, all based on truffles, so you can continue to shop while you indulge in their delicacies.
The place is cramped but exquisite. The feeling I had was almost of sitting in an enormous hand made piece of Luis Vuitton luggage, maybe because of the dominant colors in the decor. All  drinks and food are placed on large silver trays with leather handles...quite special! They serve Prosecco as well as champagne and Cava. Their appetizer  dishes are tasty,  small and satisfying, although one can also order dinner size meals, particularly pastas or risottos with truffles. Expensive.
Tartufi & Friends. Via Borgognona 4E. 9am-11pm

A more low key casual establishment is L'Antica Enoteca.
Bustling with locals, especially later at night, this is the closest thing to what Americans may consider a "hang out" bar. However, remember you are still in Rome, so the offerings are all locally sourced and sophisticated compared to the American idea of finger food. An array of cheeses and cured meats on a platter, offered with crusty bread is a great  pre dinner choice. Accompany it all with a glass of local wine and you are in Roman heaven. Again, because you are in Italy, the menu will also allow you to order freshly made pastas and other dishes as well.
I would choose this as a late night after dinner spot, a place to people watch, enjoy a good glass of vino or a grappa and maybe a pastry or other sweet, before ensconcing back to your hotel room.
Antica Enoteca  Via Della Croce 76b. 12pm- 1am

Another casual place I enjoyed is Sorpasso. "Wine & kitchen" Is their slogan... Therefore a true wine bar with food. Simple enough yet outstanding in its simplicity.
But it's more than that: you can stop in for a cappuccino and pastry in the morning ( please don't order cappuccino after 11am...a faux pas!)  A quick snack at lunchtime or in the afternoon. Dinner in the evening. Late snack, after hours.
All fresh, all good, all very casual.
Sorpasso. Via Properzio 31. 7:30am-1am

Normally in Italy it is best to order seafood along the coast, in towns located closest to the water, however there are always exceptions. Acquasalata is one of them. Literally meaning "salty water" this place is for fish, and only fish. Not worth ordering anything else.
The place is bright and airy, looking almost like it ought to belong somewhere on the isle of Capri, rather than the urban chaos of Rome. I seldom see the inside of restaurants in Rome, however, since sitting outside and watching the spectacle of the people walking by along with the cacophony of motorbikes, sirens, loud conversations and children playing is the real theater experience in Rome  after all.
The menu can be confusing,  so if you're uncomfortable allowing the fish monger choose for you, this may not be the place for you. Expect each dish to be fresh, simply prepared and delicious. The place is moderately expensive but refreshing glass of white wine or two will help take the edge off.
It is also a lounge, so a glass of champagne and a couple of oysters can be a nice late night reason for stopping by (€8). A bargain by Roman standards.
Acquasalata  Fish & Lounge.     Via della Croce 68/69.  9:30am-11:30pm

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And now, I want to mention a brand new addition to the Roman gastronomic scene.
I have yet to dine there since it is a recent opening, but I feel very comfortable proposing it since it comes highly recommended from my own family living in Rome, as well as local connoisseurs who know the chef and his reputation for offering the freshest, updated classic dishes with a verve for an esthetically precious presentation. This establishment is in the high end residential neighborhood of Parioli, easily reached from most center city hotels. Along with an aggressively Roman cuisine, they have an extensive and varied wine list.
I am looking forward to dining there the very next time I am in Rome. If you get there before me, please share your candid impressions with me. It is appreciated.
Big Al Food & Beverage   Viale  Parioli 79
 Cin-Cin everyone!

THE HOT SUMMER MONTHS IN ITALY...WORTH VISITING?

The fact that in ancient times there were only 10 months on the calendar, ending with Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec (respectively 7, 8, 9 and 10) raises the question...were they trying to avoid including  the brutal summer months in the ancient Roman Empire? Of course that's just a rhetorical and senseless question, but wanted to get you thinking!
The month of July, named after Julius Caesar, came into effect in 709 A.U.C. , or from the founding of Rome. In more modern terms, it was 45 B.C.
After Julius' grandnephew Augustus defeated Marc Anthony and Cleopatra and became Emperor of Rome aka as "god" (Trump is really jealous!!!!), the Roman Senate decided he too should have a month named after him. Not only did he get his own month, but they gave him 31 days, just like granduncle Julius..how even handed of them! However, in order to make this adjustment, February, which just happens to be the month of my birth, was reduced,, albeit sporadically, to just 28 days.


Now that we have some background history out of the way, let's examine the months of July and August as they relate to travel in the Mediterranean countries and more specifically Italy (or whatever little is left of the former Roman Empire).
When advising clients who  must travel in summer because of work schedules, I always suggest July over August. August has become in more modern times, the Socialist Eurozone's gift to workers.
August 15 (FERRAGOSTO), is the biggest holiday of the year and it encompasses the week before and after the 15th in most cases.
Most people get one month paid vacation and if you are left in the various urban centers at that time you will be part of one of several categories:
 a)You are unemployed and therefore cannot afford to leave
 b)You are elderly, collecting a tiny fixed pension and your families don't want to bother taking you    along for the fun and games,
c)You are part of a small group of workers in the emergency services and you drew the short straw.
d)You actually decided against all odds to remain in the urban caldron despite having the means to escape. Call the medics immediately...this one is lacking oxygen in the cranium!!


So, what's left in Rome, Florence, Venice and all other large cities? Tourists. And..more tourists.
Meanwhile the Italians are crowded like sardines covering every inch of available space on the beaches, and they are not a happy lot. Getting to the beaches meant enduring hours of endless traffic jams on highways and smaller roads leading to the sandy or rocky shores. Others, headed in the opposite directions, are headed to the hills where the cooler air offers respite from the burning sun, but encountering the very same traffic jams before arriving at their destinations.
Just as an example, a day trip from Rome to the Amalfi Coast could mean spending 10 hours in a car enjoying the view of the backs of other cars, while having a very limited time at the destination.
Maybe that's why Italians stay for a month, after arriving at their vacation destination.


Back in the cities, many will be disappointed in finding many of  their favorite restaurants closed, half the pharmacies, many family owned stores, and even some museums and monuments inaccessible because of skeleton staff. Even medical services are at a premium. Yes the streets will be less crowded and traffic lighter, but what you will miss is partly the reason you go to Italy in the first place: the cultural experience of seeing and encountering locals as they go about their daily activities, shopping in the markets, gathering at coffee shops, having their evening "passeggiate", actually hearing Italian spoken rather than the familiar American slang, or British, German, Japanese and others for that matter.


If you must go in August, plan ahead, know what to expect but most of all avail yourself of the trustworthy advice of an expert, someone, like myself, who knows the country and its nuances. There are still ways to enjoy Italy in August and avoiding some of the pitfalls and disappointments.


Buon Viaggio e....buone vacanze estive a tutti!! 

ITALY IN CRISIS
It gives me no pleasure to write the following, but I find it necessary to keep travelers informed and prepared prior to arriving in Italy.
I watch Italian TV news and read Italian newspapers and magazines regularly. Why you may ask? Because if I claim to be an "Italian specialist" I must be aware not just of what is happening in the tourism sector, but also what is going on socially in the country.
The US media has largely ignored the news, possibly thinking it is a local event not worthy of coverage. Here it is: Italy is being inundated by illegal immigrants coming mostly across the waters from Libya in rafts, boats, and any vessel which will float long enough to enter Italian waters. They are then rescued by the Italian Coast Guard, Italian Red Cross and other humanitarian groups. There are thousands of these people arriving DAILY,  who allegedly ( by European community agreements) just want to pass through and be welcomed in France, Germany, Britain etc.  The reality is that those aforementioned countries, part of the European Community, are refusing entrance to these illegal immigrants once they see they have no documents or any way of identifying themselves. A bottleneck is therefore created ; these people are dumped at major train stations where they sleep, relieve themselves, block passages and essentially create  a nuisance.
They have also been loaded on buses and simply dumped in the center of towns, villages, cities without forewarning the local authorities and most importantly the citizenry. No place to sleep, no food, no facilities...and you can just imagine the ensuing chaos. The majority of the illegals are claiming they must leave their countries of origin because of ongoing civil wars. Although this may be partly true, the danger is that hidden amongst the elderly, the women, the children, are physically fit young males who could also be terrorists eager to infiltrate the now borderless European community.  Political correctness is such, that very few politicians in Italy are willing to do much to stop the influx, rather they are very willing to pocket the millions of euros Brussels sends to care for the emergency needs of this human avalanche. A huge political scandal has erupted in Rome recently with allegations that politicians of the highest levels have enriched themselves personally, while ignoring the chaos being created in their localities.
Just this week the Tiburtina station in Rome and the Central Station in Milano resemble more encampments one would normally see in third world  war torn countries, than a civilized Western metropolitan area.
All this could be elaborated at length but my reason for publishing this is mostly for my clients who entrust me to create their trips.
If you should decide to book your own trips via the internet,you will NOT be made aware of areas you should avoid while traveling. You will NOT have prior warnings about civil unrest which could ruin your vacation. You may end up choosing a  hotel or an apartment in an undesirable part of town, you may unknowingly travel on a certain train line notorious for petty theft and other criminality.
My role is to be aware of all current events and to prepare, forewarn and protect the travelers who entrust me with their trip planning.
Italy is a WONDERFUL country, it can be very safe for adults and children alike, it is obviously filled with ancient as well as contemporary  culture one can find in no other country in the world. With some suggestions and guidance from an expert, you can be helped in navigating the many restaurants and food venues safely, avoiding the ones that could disappoint and take advantage of your lack of knowledge. I may suggest you NOT rent a car in certain regions, while in others I would encourage it. I can explain why a private tour, vs a group one. My expertise is far ranging.
I have letter after letter from clients thanking me for the suggestions, the planning, the hotels chosen, the transportation arranged, and the fair pricing commensurate with the services provided.
The expertise of a good travel agent can be invaluable, the reliance on the anonymous web could be disastrous.....choose wisely!!