TRANSPORATION IN ITALY

Considering that renting a car makes you more independent but also creates many limits: if you visit wine cellars in the countryside it is very easy to get lost, when you arrive in the city it is very difficult to find parking, if you drink a couple of glasses of wine or an average beer you will definitely exceed the limits of alcohol allowed by law and you cannot drive... For these reasons and for a more relaxed holiday, we always advise our guests to manage their transfers with a private driver.

• As a connection between the main cities (Milan, Venice, Florence, Rome and Naples) you can find  efficient, cost-effective and comfortable trains. On the other hand, we strongly advise you to not use local or regional trains, which are small, uncomfortable and often late.

• Trains and buses do go on strike quite often. The good news is that strikes are communicated in advance.

• Do not rent a car in Rome. There is a lot of traffic and few parkings, and you have to consider that the city is well served by the subway ("Metro").

• Do not rent a car in Florence. It’s a small city with lots of pedestrian zones. Plan on getting around on foot.

• You cannot rent a car in Venice because it is made up of islands surrounded by canals. You can get around Venice by foot or by boat, that’s it. There are no other options, so remember that when deciding how much luggage to bring.

• Traffic in Italian cities is terrible, so avoid driving inside the major Italian cities if at all possible.

• Many Italian cities have a Limited Traffic Zone, which is shortened to ZTL in Italian. If you enter the zone you’ll get a fine in the mail. This is not a tourist scam. Another reason to avoid driving in Italian cities.

• Parking in Italian cities can be a nightmare. If you must park in a city, use a paid parking garage.

• If you rent a car, beware of and understand international road symbols.

• You cannot flag taxis in Italy. You must either call the taxi to come and pick you up (and the meter will start running the minute you put down the phone) or find a taxi stand and take the first taxi in line. Make sure the meter is on – do not accept driver-dictated fares.

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An update from Rome....

The eternal city is eternally evolving, much too often in not such positive ways. The dirty streets getting dirtier, the already annoying abusive street vendors more brazen  and annoying, the homeless population more evident, and so on.

The one bright spot is definitely the food scene.

There are new venues not only offering inventive food offerings, but also innovative cocktails as well.

Here are three of them:

VOS 

www.VOSROMA.com

Opened recently by former employees of La Zanzara,in a great central location right off Via Del Corso,

This bright airy bar with several rooms housing tables including an inner courtyard garden setting is the new "in" place.

The drinks are elevated concoctions of spirits, mixed with great care and infused with herbs, aromatic oils, garnishes all perfectly balanced  and satisfying.

The food is not only good, but presented with a touch of artistry, so that each dish seems camera ready for that ubiquitous spot on Instagram!

Casual, inviting and delicious. A great addition to the legion of emporiums populating the Italian capital.

EMMA.    

www.emmapizzeria.com

If you follow my Facebook entries (Joe Gandolfo's Travel Page)

you are probably aware that Roscioli is one of my go to places every single time I am in Rome. You just can't get food that is more genuine, fresher, elegantly prepared and mouth watering.

The downside is that the venue is small, cramped and difficult to get into, unless yo go off hours or reserve a spot beforehand.

I ate lunch there again just yesterday!

Happy to announce that a new restaurant has opened called EMMA.

Not only is it an attractive new place, but smartly enough, it offers most of its creations using genuine Roscioli products.

Because this is a very large venue, you don't have to worry as much about getting a seat, however......a word of caution. Even here I recommend making a reservation, because when I dined there a couple of nights ago, the main room, which is quite large, was full and bustling with very happy diners. The food is extremely well prepared, the pizzas are as good as you can expect and the wine list is eclectic and varied.

This might just become a new personal favorite!

L'OSTERIA DI BIRRA DEL BORGO

www.osteria.birradelborgo.it

This is the newest addition to the very trendy Prati district of Rome.

Unusual in the fact that there is not a bottle of wine in sight! "Sacrilege", might be your first thought....an Italian restaurant and no wine? I can confirm: no wine!

However, this very modern cavernous space created by the famous pizza chef known simply as Bonci, offers not only dozens of artisanal and seasonal beers, but at the large bar, they make unusual cocktails all with a beer base.

The menu is very limited, mostly pizzas thicker than the very thin Roman style, yet light and airy. There are many variations,  from the usual toppings as well as quite unusual ones....all served cut in square pieces on a stone platter. 

There are also some pastas and even hamburgers.

The daily specials rotate and vary frequently.

The crowd is young, hip and very local.....few tourists here so far.

Since this venue remains open until 2AM, it is the perfect gathering place for hungry night crawlers particularly after the movies, a concert or an evening of dancing.

Not the typical Italian space, it almost looks like it should belong in London, New York or maybe Milan......yet this is the "new" Rome.

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Mt. ETNA

Have you always wanted to see a volcano up close? If reaching the summit of a volcano sounds exciting but at the same time too tiring, the Circumetnea railway might be perfect for you: since 1895 this panoramic train has linked Catania to the top of Mount Etna with its 110 kilometers (70 miles) of tracks circumnavigating and ascending towards the summit. The journey starts down by the shore, then the train climbs through olive and citrus groves, slowly working its way to the top. The higher you get, the more spectacular the views: the raw and untamed beauty of the volcano wows even the most jaded of travelers. Those who love pistachios should definitely plan to disembark in Bronte, where the best pistachios in Sicily come from. 

Windstar cruise

WINDSTAR STAR LEGEND, CARIBBEAN SAILING.
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It was my very fist time on a Windstar product and my expectations may have been a bit deflated after being on the Legend.

The crew onboard was incredibly friendly and solicitous, but the service at the bars and at dinner was many times uneven and lacking.

Many times dirty glasses and ashtrays were left on tables at the outdoor bar deck for hours before being removed and the tables cleaned, as an example.  Often I noticed guests doing the chore themselves.

The food overall was acceptable but I found most seafood  dishes were disappointing.....fish was often overcooked and dry.

Meat dishes were much better. Again waiters quite solicitous and willing to exchange dishes when asked ( something I did not do!)

The cabins were quite large and bathrooms efficient, but seemed a bit outdated and in need of renovation. In particular there was a lack of outlets  not requiring an adaptor, particularly for those like me needing to charge laptop, phones and chargers....one outlet in a large cabin just not enough! Having been made aware one needed adaptors would have been helpful.

The bathroom in my cabin had a bathtub with shower curtain....I am not a fan of shower curtains in hotels or sailing vessels, but that may be just my personal "Psycho" bias! The water pressure was seriously lacking, making it a bit of a chore rinsing soap from one's body.

The public rooms and center stairwell also seemed dated and "retro", not sure if left that way purposely as an homage to the clients who sailed her in her previous incarnation, or just because renovations were not done.

I know the Star Legend is an old vessel, and in desperate need of some tlc, so I am open  to trying one of the newer yachts in the fleet in the near future to experience what Windstar is truly capable of offering my clients!

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Revisiting Roscioli in Rome.

So....here you are in Rome, walking around Campo dei Fiori being jostled around by locals shopping, tourists taking endless photos and trattoria waiters trying to pull you in to their establishments. There are musicians, jugglers and assorted other street entertainers all vying for your attention. There are also the stall vendors, few of them still Italians, the others selling cheap Chinese made gadgets, mixed in with those selling fresh artichokes, puntarelle, tomatoes, jams, honey and a large variety of original and artisanal goodies.

There are some decent food establishments there, but my favorite is down a side street ensconced behind an anonymous door where you often see people standing outside waiting to be ushered in, on Via dei Giubbonari.

Why the interest? After all, it's just another salumeria (deli) in Rome.

Ah.....not just another, it's THE salumeria/ bar/ restaurant in the area that should not be missed. I have at least one meal there each time I visit.

It's a small establishment with a long glass case on the left side displaying exotic cheeses, salumi and other wonderful gourmet products. On the right and alongside the glass display case are small tables for two...I've never seen one of them empty!

Walking past the display case , a small bar on the left and then more tables in a small room in the back. Directly across from the bar a wall filled with glass jars enclosing the most delectable speciality food items for sale, rare tuna, minuscule artichokes, coffee, sardines, all displayed "Tiffany like" as if it were jewelry..and priced accordingly!!

But here, as like anything else, you get what you pay for and the quality of all products is non pareil.

The place is supreme choreography , as if Twyla Tharp herself had orchestrated it.

Expert salumieri behind  the case slicing, prepping, both for in house customers as well as for those taking cold cuts and cheeses home. The baristas pouring wine, liquors and making espresso, cappuccino with no pause. Waiters moving back and forth between the tight fitting tables, running to the kitchen to pick up the hot dishes, returning to the dirty dish drop off area, picking up fresh burrata or mozzarella by the front case, juggling dishes, drinks, trying to avoid bumping into customers coming and going, all in a very tight space. It is a recipe for disaster which never seems to happen...it is like watching a theatrical performance, well rehearsed and choreographed. The background soundtrack provided by happy patrons enjoying the food and drinks, the clinking of glasses and silverware, and the friendly exchanges between everyone in the place. 

But the reason for being here is the food: one would only imagine being able to order a sandwich or a plate of cheeses and prosciutto, or burrata and fresh tomatoes, but the surprise is that they are able to prepare some of the best pastas in town. I had cacio e pepe during this last visit...absolutely perfect in its simplicity! No " Alfredo sauce" here ( or anywhere else in Italy for that matter) what the heck is that stuff anyway?

They will also make matriciana or carbonara. The typical Roman pasta dishes but made with only the very best ingredients. The menu choices are vast and all excellent.

At the end of the meal, they present you with several home made cookies along with a chocolate dipping sauce.....divine!!

I write this with some apprehension, because as busy as Roscioli is, I would hate to have to wait an even longer time for a table next time,  once all of you catch on to this gem. But I share this with my readers, as this year's  Christams gift to all of you!

Buone Feste......Buon Appetito!

Www.salumeriaroscioli.com

Via dei Giubbonari 21/22

ROMA

BIG AL FOOD & BEVERAGE, Rome.

The restaurant scene in the "eternal city" has been evolving for centuries, at times at an extremely slow pace, however in the last few years, things have been accelerating at an unusually quick pace. While Milan has always been considered at the forefront of Italian innovation, Rome is finally catching up with the rest of the culinary world! Alongside the family owned, traditional trattorie, osterie, ristoranti we are now seeing a new crop of inventive bistros, eateries, food joints that are both innovative and brilliant in concept. 

Long gone is the idea of checkered tablecloths, straw encased bottles of Chianti, surly "mature" waiters and limited menu offerings.

Enter Big Al, a bustling modern venue with a young energetic chef , Emiliano Lopez, at the helm.... Argentinean by birth, and after more than 20 years in Italy, Italian by osmosis. Located in the upscale residential neighborhood of Parioli, attracting a mix of well healed Romans, discriminating tourists and some celebrities, this is rapidly becoming one of the "in" places to be and be seen.

The extensive menu is a mix of the expected traditional Italian fare, alongside newer offerings that at times push the envelope, but never forget the origins of the ingredients which are always locally sourced, treated with respect and presented artfully.  The wine list is more than impressive, and will satisfy all tastes and  yes..pocketbook.

The waiters are young, energetic, very knowledgeable of each and every dish (this thanks to the direction and leadership of chef Lopez) but are never intrusive or pushy.

The decor is quirky yet comfortable. The large screen TV's  anchor the room  while running a loop of vintage black and white films  from the 50's and 60's reminiscent of the Al Capone era .....therefore the name Big Al.

A sweet finish is not to be neglected at this wonderful restaurant. With the help and intuitive acumen of noted pastry chef Paola Azzolina, the deserts do not disappoint, rather they follow the same direction as the savory menu: a mix of traditional and deconstructed traditional, sprinkled with fantasy and surprising presentation.

This venue excites and satisfies all the senses without pretense or fake showmanship.

Chef Lopez will also design vegetarian or kosher dishes upon request.

Reservations are a must, as is a visit when in Rome. You won't be disappointed!

Buon appetito!

                   Big Al Food and Beverage

Viale dei Parioli, 79, 00197 Roma, Italy
+39 06 808 






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Street View
Photos
BIG AL FOOD AND BEVERAGE S.R.L., Roma - RM - Ristoranti ...

PALAZZO MANFREDI, ROME

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Palazzo Manfredi, Roma

I travel  to Italy frequently and eventually, no matter the region I am visiting, a stop in Rome, city of my birth, is inevitable. Each time I try to spend a couple of nights in different hotels, ones I had never overnighted in , to better understand how they work, how both the physical structure , the rooms, the food services  and the overall feeling would appear to my prospective clients.

Palazzo Manfredi, a five star luxury hotel was a truly outstanding surprise for me. This is a unique structure which deserves consideration for any discriminating traveler spending time in Rome. Here I will borrow and quote from their website, because I could not write this any better or more correctly, and to allow my reader to understand the history behind the palazzo....

"The splendid building of the Palazzo Manfredi began life in the 17th century as the villa of the Evangelisti family, designed by architect Giovanni Battista Mola. It then passed to the Venerabile Confraternita della Ss Trinità dei Pellegrini e dei Convalescenti (Venerable Fraternity of the Holy Trinity of Pilgrims and Convalescents), as commemorated by the two stones on the façade. 

The villa was completely rebuilt in the 18th century, becoming the hunting lodge of the noble Guidi family and, from 1748, this area was known as “Giardino Guidi”. 

In 2002, the villa was purchased by Count Goffredo Manfredi, one of Italy’s most famous entrepreneurs and construction magnates and, thanks to him, Palazzo Manfredi, our superb luxury hotel, was born. In commemoration of the past, and of the distinction of the noble Manfredi family, you can still read today two Latin inscriptions on the turret, “Fortuna duce”, with fortune as guide, and “Virtute Comite”, with virtue as companion, quoting Cicerone’s famous maxim."

As you can now see, and because this is Rome  after all, behind every façade, there is a long history. Entering the lobby, one is immediately warmly greeted as if indeed entering a private abode. To the right a welcoming check in desk, to the left a cozy library with comfortable couches. The brief interview upon check in is to ascertain one's personal needs while staying; pillow choice, favorite newspaper , special requests etc... The structure has been decorated with great taste and fine artwork. It is immaculately maintained and while there, I noticed someone cleaning and polishing the common areas at all times of the day.

The rooms are spacious and very technologically advanced, with touch button window screens, flat screen TV's , some hidden behind mirrors, modern efficient bathrooms and every amenity one can possibly imagine. It is modern, encased in the ancient, yet comfortable, welcoming and yes..cozy and cocooning!

What makes this hotel quite unique and impossible to imitate is its proximity to the Coliseum. I had the privilege and honor in staying in the "Colosseo suite" with several windows facing directly the ancient structure, while just below my windows I could see the ancient "locker rooms" used by the gladiators, and excavated only a few decades ago.  A set of views which will forever be emblazoned in my memory.

While not all rooms offer that spectacular view, all other views are of the areas adjacent to the Coliseum.....spectacular in their own right.

The fifth floor rooftop is a must visit, whether staying at the hotel or not. No other building can offer this unique view. The rear facing terrace is occupied by a small bar and comfortable seating, while the portion facing the Coliseum is used for guests' breakfast in the morning, then lunch or dinner for both hotel guests or the public, meals prepared by a Michelin starred chef.

The restaurant and bar staff is attentive, professional, accommodating and the top in their field. 

This is not a cookie cutter mass market venue, rather this is a luxurious, private enclave with a past and even a future. The owners have purchased an adjacent building which will be connected to the original palazzo by a private walkway and a courtyard. The new suites will all face the Coliseum, giving more visitors the option of having a unique stay while in the eternal city, and increasing the number of rooms  yet maintaining the level of luxury and privacy. Although the restructuring work on the adjacent building was going on while I was there, it was being done in a manner which was imperceptible and not intrusive at all. Not noticeable unless one looked out a side window from a guest room. 

If looking to being pampered, enveloped by modern luxury and resting one's head a stone's throw from a monument thousands of years old, this indeed is the only choice in Rome!

A personal thanks to Hotel Manager Mr. Bruno Papaleo for hosting me and introducing me to this beautiful hotel. 

An additional note: if you contact me to book this hotel, I will be able to provide you with an e try VIP amenity and possible upgrade, if available.

To book: jgandolfo143@gmail.com

Www.palazzomanfredi.com

Via Labicana 125

00184. Roma

Tel. 06 77591380