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Revisiting Roscioli in Rome.

So....here you are in Rome, walking around Campo dei Fiori being jostled around by locals shopping, tourists taking endless photos and trattoria waiters trying to pull you in to their establishments. There are musicians, jugglers and assorted other street entertainers all vying for your attention. There are also the stall vendors, few of them still Italians, the others selling cheap Chinese made gadgets, mixed in with those selling fresh artichokes, puntarelle, tomatoes, jams, honey and a large variety of original and artisanal goodies.

There are some decent food establishments there, but my favorite is down a side street ensconced behind an anonymous door where you often see people standing outside waiting to be ushered in, on Via dei Giubbonari.

Why the interest? After all, it's just another salumeria (deli) in Rome.

Ah.....not just another, it's THE salumeria/ bar/ restaurant in the area that should not be missed. I have at least one meal there each time I visit.

It's a small establishment with a long glass case on the left side displaying exotic cheeses, salumi and other wonderful gourmet products. On the right and alongside the glass display case are small tables for two...I've never seen one of them empty!

Walking past the display case , a small bar on the left and then more tables in a small room in the back. Directly across from the bar a wall filled with glass jars enclosing the most delectable speciality food items for sale, rare tuna, minuscule artichokes, coffee, sardines, all displayed "Tiffany like" as if it were jewelry..and priced accordingly!!

But here, as like anything else, you get what you pay for and the quality of all products is non pareil.

The place is supreme choreography , as if Twyla Tharp herself had orchestrated it.

Expert salumieri behind  the case slicing, prepping, both for in house customers as well as for those taking cold cuts and cheeses home. The baristas pouring wine, liquors and making espresso, cappuccino with no pause. Waiters moving back and forth between the tight fitting tables, running to the kitchen to pick up the hot dishes, returning to the dirty dish drop off area, picking up fresh burrata or mozzarella by the front case, juggling dishes, drinks, trying to avoid bumping into customers coming and going, all in a very tight space. It is a recipe for disaster which never seems to happen...it is like watching a theatrical performance, well rehearsed and choreographed. The background soundtrack provided by happy patrons enjoying the food and drinks, the clinking of glasses and silverware, and the friendly exchanges between everyone in the place. 

But the reason for being here is the food: one would only imagine being able to order a sandwich or a plate of cheeses and prosciutto, or burrata and fresh tomatoes, but the surprise is that they are able to prepare some of the best pastas in town. I had cacio e pepe during this last visit...absolutely perfect in its simplicity! No " Alfredo sauce" here ( or anywhere else in Italy for that matter) what the heck is that stuff anyway?

They will also make matriciana or carbonara. The typical Roman pasta dishes but made with only the very best ingredients. The menu choices are vast and all excellent.

At the end of the meal, they present you with several home made cookies along with a chocolate dipping sauce.....divine!!

I write this with some apprehension, because as busy as Roscioli is, I would hate to have to wait an even longer time for a table next time,  once all of you catch on to this gem. But I share this with my readers, as this year's  Christams gift to all of you!

Buone Feste......Buon Appetito!

Www.salumeriaroscioli.com

Via dei Giubbonari 21/22

ROMA

BIG AL FOOD & BEVERAGE, Rome.

The restaurant scene in the "eternal city" has been evolving for centuries, at times at an extremely slow pace, however in the last few years, things have been accelerating at an unusually quick pace. While Milan has always been considered at the forefront of Italian innovation, Rome is finally catching up with the rest of the culinary world! Alongside the family owned, traditional trattorie, osterie, ristoranti we are now seeing a new crop of inventive bistros, eateries, food joints that are both innovative and brilliant in concept. 

Long gone is the idea of checkered tablecloths, straw encased bottles of Chianti, surly "mature" waiters and limited menu offerings.

Enter Big Al, a bustling modern venue with a young energetic chef , Emiliano Lopez, at the helm.... Argentinean by birth, and after more than 20 years in Italy, Italian by osmosis. Located in the upscale residential neighborhood of Parioli, attracting a mix of well healed Romans, discriminating tourists and some celebrities, this is rapidly becoming one of the "in" places to be and be seen.

The extensive menu is a mix of the expected traditional Italian fare, alongside newer offerings that at times push the envelope, but never forget the origins of the ingredients which are always locally sourced, treated with respect and presented artfully.  The wine list is more than impressive, and will satisfy all tastes and  yes..pocketbook.

The waiters are young, energetic, very knowledgeable of each and every dish (this thanks to the direction and leadership of chef Lopez) but are never intrusive or pushy.

The decor is quirky yet comfortable. The large screen TV's  anchor the room  while running a loop of vintage black and white films  from the 50's and 60's reminiscent of the Al Capone era .....therefore the name Big Al.

A sweet finish is not to be neglected at this wonderful restaurant. With the help and intuitive acumen of noted pastry chef Paola Azzolina, the deserts do not disappoint, rather they follow the same direction as the savory menu: a mix of traditional and deconstructed traditional, sprinkled with fantasy and surprising presentation.

This venue excites and satisfies all the senses without pretense or fake showmanship.

Chef Lopez will also design vegetarian or kosher dishes upon request.

Reservations are a must, as is a visit when in Rome. You won't be disappointed!

Buon appetito!

                   Big Al Food and Beverage

Viale dei Parioli, 79, 00197 Roma, Italy
+39 06 808 






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Street View
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BIG AL FOOD AND BEVERAGE S.R.L., Roma - RM - Ristoranti ...

PALAZZO MANFREDI, ROME

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Palazzo Manfredi, Roma

I travel  to Italy frequently and eventually, no matter the region I am visiting, a stop in Rome, city of my birth, is inevitable. Each time I try to spend a couple of nights in different hotels, ones I had never overnighted in , to better understand how they work, how both the physical structure , the rooms, the food services  and the overall feeling would appear to my prospective clients.

Palazzo Manfredi, a five star luxury hotel was a truly outstanding surprise for me. This is a unique structure which deserves consideration for any discriminating traveler spending time in Rome. Here I will borrow and quote from their website, because I could not write this any better or more correctly, and to allow my reader to understand the history behind the palazzo....

"The splendid building of the Palazzo Manfredi began life in the 17th century as the villa of the Evangelisti family, designed by architect Giovanni Battista Mola. It then passed to the Venerabile Confraternita della Ss Trinità dei Pellegrini e dei Convalescenti (Venerable Fraternity of the Holy Trinity of Pilgrims and Convalescents), as commemorated by the two stones on the façade. 

The villa was completely rebuilt in the 18th century, becoming the hunting lodge of the noble Guidi family and, from 1748, this area was known as “Giardino Guidi”. 

In 2002, the villa was purchased by Count Goffredo Manfredi, one of Italy’s most famous entrepreneurs and construction magnates and, thanks to him, Palazzo Manfredi, our superb luxury hotel, was born. In commemoration of the past, and of the distinction of the noble Manfredi family, you can still read today two Latin inscriptions on the turret, “Fortuna duce”, with fortune as guide, and “Virtute Comite”, with virtue as companion, quoting Cicerone’s famous maxim."

As you can now see, and because this is Rome  after all, behind every façade, there is a long history. Entering the lobby, one is immediately warmly greeted as if indeed entering a private abode. To the right a welcoming check in desk, to the left a cozy library with comfortable couches. The brief interview upon check in is to ascertain one's personal needs while staying; pillow choice, favorite newspaper , special requests etc... The structure has been decorated with great taste and fine artwork. It is immaculately maintained and while there, I noticed someone cleaning and polishing the common areas at all times of the day.

The rooms are spacious and very technologically advanced, with touch button window screens, flat screen TV's , some hidden behind mirrors, modern efficient bathrooms and every amenity one can possibly imagine. It is modern, encased in the ancient, yet comfortable, welcoming and yes..cozy and cocooning!

What makes this hotel quite unique and impossible to imitate is its proximity to the Coliseum. I had the privilege and honor in staying in the "Colosseo suite" with several windows facing directly the ancient structure, while just below my windows I could see the ancient "locker rooms" used by the gladiators, and excavated only a few decades ago.  A set of views which will forever be emblazoned in my memory.

While not all rooms offer that spectacular view, all other views are of the areas adjacent to the Coliseum.....spectacular in their own right.

The fifth floor rooftop is a must visit, whether staying at the hotel or not. No other building can offer this unique view. The rear facing terrace is occupied by a small bar and comfortable seating, while the portion facing the Coliseum is used for guests' breakfast in the morning, then lunch or dinner for both hotel guests or the public, meals prepared by a Michelin starred chef.

The restaurant and bar staff is attentive, professional, accommodating and the top in their field. 

This is not a cookie cutter mass market venue, rather this is a luxurious, private enclave with a past and even a future. The owners have purchased an adjacent building which will be connected to the original palazzo by a private walkway and a courtyard. The new suites will all face the Coliseum, giving more visitors the option of having a unique stay while in the eternal city, and increasing the number of rooms  yet maintaining the level of luxury and privacy. Although the restructuring work on the adjacent building was going on while I was there, it was being done in a manner which was imperceptible and not intrusive at all. Not noticeable unless one looked out a side window from a guest room. 

If looking to being pampered, enveloped by modern luxury and resting one's head a stone's throw from a monument thousands of years old, this indeed is the only choice in Rome!

A personal thanks to Hotel Manager Mr. Bruno Papaleo for hosting me and introducing me to this beautiful hotel. 

An additional note: if you contact me to book this hotel, I will be able to provide you with an e try VIP amenity and possible upgrade, if available.

To book: jgandolfo143@gmail.com

Www.palazzomanfredi.com

Via Labicana 125

00184. Roma

Tel. 06 77591380

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RELAIS CARLO V.

GALLIPOLI (Salento, Puglia)

One cannot deny the richness of Puglia's cultural offerings, coupled with a topography enriched with a diverse coastline on three sides, stunning inner land towns and hundreds of thousands of ancient olive trees still producing olives and therefore its by product : olive oil. 

The Salento region of Puglia is a culture within a culture with its own geographical area in the most southernmost portion of Italy's heel. Some of the cities and towns that must not be missed are Lecce, Gallipoli, Nardò amongst many others.

In this post I want to showcase an outstanding small hotel in Gallipoli.

Gallipoli is considered by most as a summer beach destination, but it is much more than that. Actually it is a town with three distinct sections: the beach strip and its neighborhood, the ancient walled town and bay, and finally the more "modern" shopping and residential area.

Relais Carlo V resides in the latter of the three, yet just a 10 minute leisurely walk to the  historical ancient part of town.  One needs to understand that the adjective " modern" must be placed in a different chronological sphere when speaking of Italy! This former private residence is far from contemporary, rather it is a traditionally old world town-home nestled just a few steps off the main shopping drag called  Corso Roma.

It is ensconced behind a huge wooden  door, which opens to a surprisingly bright and airy courtyard leading to a magnificent white staircase which in turn leads to the main floor of the home featuring the guest rooms as well as the breakfast room and a spectacular terrace.

The 8 rooms are all different one from the other, but their common denominator is spaciousness, airiness and brightness, high ceilings, modern efficient bathrooms and some of the most comfortable beds and pillows I've had the pleasure of resting my head on. Some of the rooms even boast jacuzzis and loft spaces.

The highest compliment one may bestow on a hotel is not about  the beauty of the rooms, or the amenities one can find there, but in my subjective view it is the way one is welcomed and made to feel while there. On that count Relais Carlo V receives my highest accolades!

You will feel at "home" while residing there. You will meet Antonella and Elena and shy "Ciccio" who will pamper you, advise you, meet your every request and needs  with a genuine smile and courteous generosity. 

This is definitely a recommended place to lay one's head after touring around Salento, eating in its many succulent kitchens and lingering in one of hundreds of street side cafés....adult beverage in hand!

It has instantly become one of my favorites!

LA ZANZARA...Rome's newest hangout!

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While in the US a great cocktail bar may not be synonymous with equally scrumptious food, in Rome this is certainly not the case.

Take for example the bustling tavern in the Prati neighborhood of Rome: La Zanzara.

At first impact, this could be Soho in NY, or The Marais in Paris or one of many trendy spots in London. The young  well heeled, energetic  crowd gathered around the elongated bar are gregarious and animated as they enjoy uniquely concocted cocktails. 

Moving beyond the bar area, are closely gathered tables crowded with equally well attired Roman professionals, enjoying either the small dishes  or the main courses and specials offered from the extensive menu.  There are burgers, but also burrata...simple salads but also carbonara. The mood is upbeat, the drinks uniquely satisfying, the food exceptional.

What more can one ask? This is Rome, the eternally evolving city!

http://www.lazanzararoma.com/en/

Rome: SPLENDIDE ROYAL HOTEL

Splendide Royal Roma
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I had the pleasure recently to spend a couple of nights in the Splendide Royal Hotel and I must say every aspect of my visit exceeded all expectations.

This is truly a "home away from home" , albeit a baroque palace from the 18th century

transformed from a unique private residence into an intimately elegant boutique hotel literally in the center of bustling Rome.

The lobby and common areas on the ground floor are more reminiscent of a residence rather than a hotel, and the familiarity is further enhanced by the incredible warmth and friendliness of the staff who take the time to acknowledge each guest by name with graciousness and a genuine smile.

One is immediately surrounded by a sense of history, from the portraits of important religious and historical personages, to the rare Murano chandelier hanging quite prominently in the lobby area, which could easily be alluded to as the palace's " living room", such is the intimacy of this elegant property.

The rooms are airy, bright and larger than average for a city hotel. Every aspect of the guest's comfort and expectations has been considered including such small but important touches as multiple plug outlets with built in adapters for electronic gadgets, and spacious efficient bathrooms with upscale amenities throughout. The attention to the guests' comfort continues to such details as an above average turn down service providing bottled water, a weather forecast for the following day, an elegantly wrapped sweet, bedroom slippers and floor mat.

The Crystal room on the sixth floor is a pleasant surprise, offering a panoramic  view of Rome while enjoying a fresh, varied and plentiful breakfast. The staff here also is attentive yet unobtrusive.

The absolute crown on this rather regal structure is however the ubiquitous Mirabelle restaurant on the seventh floor. Here again the personal and elegant touches provided personally by the owners, makes this a "must see, must experience" feature. The sense of intimacy and familiarity continues here, enhanced by top notch service, drinks and food prepared by very capable barmen, and a superb chef. However it is the breathtaking panoramic birds eye view of the Eternal City that will forever change one's perception of what mundane hotel dining could be.

Guests here are invited to share the award winning spa at its sister property Parco dei Principi hotel, via a free shuttle. This too an additional perk.

This elegant palace is literally steps away from the Spanish steps, shopping and bustling crowds, yet it is ensconced on a side street secluded enough to provide a quiet oasis from the raucous masses.

ROME'S PARCO DEI PRINCIPI HOTEL

As a travel planner for several decades first for Empress Travel/Cavalcade Tours, now American Express, Italy has always been the primary destination for my various clients.

As a native of Rome and an Italy specialist, I know that being in a central city location, yet away from the cacophony of Roman life is the ideal solution for the discriminating traveler.

Parco dei Principi Hotel has evolved in the last few years from a primarily business and group oriented hotel, into  the the "urban resort" par excellence it has now become.

The recent upgrades and careful retouches  have transformed this  structure into the premier hotel it always was meant to be. From the rich yet subtle touches of traditional furnishings coupled with modern functional bathrooms, each room category offers the guests either a breathtaking view of Rome's unique panorama, or a glimpse of the historic rooftops adjacent to the vast Villa Borghese gardens. 

The common rooms are vast, welcoming and well appointed, the bar and dining venues exclusive yet comfortable, allowing the  guest  to feel special yet at ease.

The Michelin starred chef joining the restaurant staff will further enhance the uniqueness and  gastronomic importance of the hotel.

Last but not least, the recently awarded urban spa, carefully ensconced below ground, adjacent to the main building of the hotel is a destination onto itself. Being named the very best hotel spa in Europe by Conde Nast is well deserved and no small feat.

Hotel guests have free access and are welcomed by a professional, friendly staff who meticulously guide the first time visitor to the myriad of options offered by the huge, elegant complex.

A unique feature, a rare one at that in the city of Rome, is the vast outdoor swimming pool, nestled in an intimate park which also features the remnants of an ancient Roman aqueduct.

An outdoor bar/ casual restaurant completes the total resort feeling of the hotel.

Parco dei Principi is truly a stand out amongst the handful of luxury hotels in Rome.It is the only centrally located luxury urban oasis in the eternal city