ROME'S PARCO DEI PRINCIPI HOTEL

As a travel planner for several decades first for Empress Travel/Cavalcade Tours, now American Express, Italy has always been the primary destination for my various clients.

As a native of Rome and an Italy specialist, I know that being in a central city location, yet away from the cacophony of Roman life is the ideal solution for the discriminating traveler.

Parco dei Principi Hotel has evolved in the last few years from a primarily business and group oriented hotel, into  the the "urban resort" par excellence it has now become.

The recent upgrades and careful retouches  have transformed this  structure into the premier hotel it always was meant to be. From the rich yet subtle touches of traditional furnishings coupled with modern functional bathrooms, each room category offers the guests either a breathtaking view of Rome's unique panorama, or a glimpse of the historic rooftops adjacent to the vast Villa Borghese gardens. 

The common rooms are vast, welcoming and well appointed, the bar and dining venues exclusive yet comfortable, allowing the  guest  to feel special yet at ease.

The Michelin starred chef joining the restaurant staff will further enhance the uniqueness and  gastronomic importance of the hotel.

Last but not least, the recently awarded urban spa, carefully ensconced below ground, adjacent to the main building of the hotel is a destination onto itself. Being named the very best hotel spa in Europe by Conde Nast is well deserved and no small feat.

Hotel guests have free access and are welcomed by a professional, friendly staff who meticulously guide the first time visitor to the myriad of options offered by the huge, elegant complex.

A unique feature, a rare one at that in the city of Rome, is the vast outdoor swimming pool, nestled in an intimate park which also features the remnants of an ancient Roman aqueduct.

An outdoor bar/ casual restaurant completes the total resort feeling of the hotel.

Parco dei Principi is truly a stand out amongst the handful of luxury hotels in Rome.It is the only centrally located luxury urban oasis in the eternal city

Roman lounges & grazing places.

#italywithJoe
#bookitalywithJoe

ROME.....it can be disorienting, frustrating and downright maddening sometimes trying to find a real local spot to sit, sip, knosh and chat.
There are many good ones, but also many tourist traps serving  mediocre wine and unappetizing food. "In Rome?" you say with shock in your voice. Unfortunately yes.
Every time I roam the streets of my native city I am amazed at the proliferation of touristy shops selling "made in China" trinkets, gelaterie selling artificially flavored gelato, and pubs filled with drunken students doing their best to feel like they never left home. Why? You're in the Eternal City...when in Rome, do as the Romans do.  A  cliche' perhaps, but still good advice.
With my friends and family members still living there, I am fortunate to be introduced at each visit, to the best of the best and the newest gems in the eno-gastronomic realm. Not all of these emporiums may appeal to the generic tourist, but each offer a unique culinary experience reserved for the open minded and discriminating palate not looking for the Olive Garden experience they left behind.
Sifting through the good and not so good, I have chosen just a few to introduce to you in this posting, in no particular order or preference. However, they are all located in the same central area of Rome near Piazza di Spagna ( the Spanish Steps), the premier shopping area for Italian fashion.
You've been shopping, trying on shoes, buying shirts, ties, bags gifts. Your hands are carrying multiple shopping bags and your feet hurt, you're thirsty and just a bit hungry, but not for a full dinner yet.

Tartufi & Friends is a little spot, meticulously decorated  specializing in all things truffle and of course bubbly. How bad can that be? They also sell many unique products, all based on truffles, so you can continue to shop while you indulge in their delicacies.
The place is cramped but exquisite. The feeling I had was almost of sitting in an enormous hand made piece of Luis Vuitton luggage, maybe because of the dominant colors in the decor. All  drinks and food are placed on large silver trays with leather handles...quite special! They serve Prosecco as well as champagne and Cava. Their appetizer  dishes are tasty,  small and satisfying, although one can also order dinner size meals, particularly pastas or risottos with truffles. Expensive.
Tartufi & Friends. Via Borgognona 4E. 9am-11pm

A more low key casual establishment is L'Antica Enoteca.
Bustling with locals, especially later at night, this is the closest thing to what Americans may consider a "hang out" bar. However, remember you are still in Rome, so the offerings are all locally sourced and sophisticated compared to the American idea of finger food. An array of cheeses and cured meats on a platter, offered with crusty bread is a great  pre dinner choice. Accompany it all with a glass of local wine and you are in Roman heaven. Again, because you are in Italy, the menu will also allow you to order freshly made pastas and other dishes as well.
I would choose this as a late night after dinner spot, a place to people watch, enjoy a good glass of vino or a grappa and maybe a pastry or other sweet, before ensconcing back to your hotel room.
Antica Enoteca  Via Della Croce 76b. 12pm- 1am

Another casual place I enjoyed is Sorpasso. "Wine & kitchen" Is their slogan... Therefore a true wine bar with food. Simple enough yet outstanding in its simplicity.
But it's more than that: you can stop in for a cappuccino and pastry in the morning ( please don't order cappuccino after 11am...a faux pas!)  A quick snack at lunchtime or in the afternoon. Dinner in the evening. Late snack, after hours.
All fresh, all good, all very casual.
Sorpasso. Via Properzio 31. 7:30am-1am

Normally in Italy it is best to order seafood along the coast, in towns located closest to the water, however there are always exceptions. Acquasalata is one of them. Literally meaning "salty water" this place is for fish, and only fish. Not worth ordering anything else.
The place is bright and airy, looking almost like it ought to belong somewhere on the isle of Capri, rather than the urban chaos of Rome. I seldom see the inside of restaurants in Rome, however, since sitting outside and watching the spectacle of the people walking by along with the cacophony of motorbikes, sirens, loud conversations and children playing is the real theater experience in Rome  after all.
The menu can be confusing,  so if you're uncomfortable allowing the fish monger choose for you, this may not be the place for you. Expect each dish to be fresh, simply prepared and delicious. The place is moderately expensive but refreshing glass of white wine or two will help take the edge off.
It is also a lounge, so a glass of champagne and a couple of oysters can be a nice late night reason for stopping by (€8). A bargain by Roman standards.
Acquasalata  Fish & Lounge.     Via della Croce 68/69.  9:30am-11:30pm

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And now, I want to mention a brand new addition to the Roman gastronomic scene.
I have yet to dine there since it is a recent opening, but I feel very comfortable proposing it since it comes highly recommended from my own family living in Rome, as well as local connoisseurs who know the chef and his reputation for offering the freshest, updated classic dishes with a verve for an esthetically precious presentation. This establishment is in the high end residential neighborhood of Parioli, easily reached from most center city hotels. Along with an aggressively Roman cuisine, they have an extensive and varied wine list.
I am looking forward to dining there the very next time I am in Rome. If you get there before me, please share your candid impressions with me. It is appreciated.
Big Al Food & Beverage   Viale  Parioli 79
 Cin-Cin everyone!

THE HOT SUMMER MONTHS IN ITALY...WORTH VISITING?

The fact that in ancient times there were only 10 months on the calendar, ending with Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec (respectively 7, 8, 9 and 10) raises the question...were they trying to avoid including  the brutal summer months in the ancient Roman Empire? Of course that's just a rhetorical and senseless question, but wanted to get you thinking!
The month of July, named after Julius Caesar, came into effect in 709 A.U.C. , or from the founding of Rome. In more modern terms, it was 45 B.C.
After Julius' grandnephew Augustus defeated Marc Anthony and Cleopatra and became Emperor of Rome aka as "god" (Trump is really jealous!!!!), the Roman Senate decided he too should have a month named after him. Not only did he get his own month, but they gave him 31 days, just like granduncle Julius..how even handed of them! However, in order to make this adjustment, February, which just happens to be the month of my birth, was reduced,, albeit sporadically, to just 28 days.


Now that we have some background history out of the way, let's examine the months of July and August as they relate to travel in the Mediterranean countries and more specifically Italy (or whatever little is left of the former Roman Empire).
When advising clients who  must travel in summer because of work schedules, I always suggest July over August. August has become in more modern times, the Socialist Eurozone's gift to workers.
August 15 (FERRAGOSTO), is the biggest holiday of the year and it encompasses the week before and after the 15th in most cases.
Most people get one month paid vacation and if you are left in the various urban centers at that time you will be part of one of several categories:
 a)You are unemployed and therefore cannot afford to leave
 b)You are elderly, collecting a tiny fixed pension and your families don't want to bother taking you    along for the fun and games,
c)You are part of a small group of workers in the emergency services and you drew the short straw.
d)You actually decided against all odds to remain in the urban caldron despite having the means to escape. Call the medics immediately...this one is lacking oxygen in the cranium!!


So, what's left in Rome, Florence, Venice and all other large cities? Tourists. And..more tourists.
Meanwhile the Italians are crowded like sardines covering every inch of available space on the beaches, and they are not a happy lot. Getting to the beaches meant enduring hours of endless traffic jams on highways and smaller roads leading to the sandy or rocky shores. Others, headed in the opposite directions, are headed to the hills where the cooler air offers respite from the burning sun, but encountering the very same traffic jams before arriving at their destinations.
Just as an example, a day trip from Rome to the Amalfi Coast could mean spending 10 hours in a car enjoying the view of the backs of other cars, while having a very limited time at the destination.
Maybe that's why Italians stay for a month, after arriving at their vacation destination.


Back in the cities, many will be disappointed in finding many of  their favorite restaurants closed, half the pharmacies, many family owned stores, and even some museums and monuments inaccessible because of skeleton staff. Even medical services are at a premium. Yes the streets will be less crowded and traffic lighter, but what you will miss is partly the reason you go to Italy in the first place: the cultural experience of seeing and encountering locals as they go about their daily activities, shopping in the markets, gathering at coffee shops, having their evening "passeggiate", actually hearing Italian spoken rather than the familiar American slang, or British, German, Japanese and others for that matter.


If you must go in August, plan ahead, know what to expect but most of all avail yourself of the trustworthy advice of an expert, someone, like myself, who knows the country and its nuances. There are still ways to enjoy Italy in August and avoiding some of the pitfalls and disappointments.


Buon Viaggio e....buone vacanze estive a tutti!! 

ITALY IN CRISIS
It gives me no pleasure to write the following, but I find it necessary to keep travelers informed and prepared prior to arriving in Italy.
I watch Italian TV news and read Italian newspapers and magazines regularly. Why you may ask? Because if I claim to be an "Italian specialist" I must be aware not just of what is happening in the tourism sector, but also what is going on socially in the country.
The US media has largely ignored the news, possibly thinking it is a local event not worthy of coverage. Here it is: Italy is being inundated by illegal immigrants coming mostly across the waters from Libya in rafts, boats, and any vessel which will float long enough to enter Italian waters. They are then rescued by the Italian Coast Guard, Italian Red Cross and other humanitarian groups. There are thousands of these people arriving DAILY,  who allegedly ( by European community agreements) just want to pass through and be welcomed in France, Germany, Britain etc.  The reality is that those aforementioned countries, part of the European Community, are refusing entrance to these illegal immigrants once they see they have no documents or any way of identifying themselves. A bottleneck is therefore created ; these people are dumped at major train stations where they sleep, relieve themselves, block passages and essentially create  a nuisance.
They have also been loaded on buses and simply dumped in the center of towns, villages, cities without forewarning the local authorities and most importantly the citizenry. No place to sleep, no food, no facilities...and you can just imagine the ensuing chaos. The majority of the illegals are claiming they must leave their countries of origin because of ongoing civil wars. Although this may be partly true, the danger is that hidden amongst the elderly, the women, the children, are physically fit young males who could also be terrorists eager to infiltrate the now borderless European community.  Political correctness is such, that very few politicians in Italy are willing to do much to stop the influx, rather they are very willing to pocket the millions of euros Brussels sends to care for the emergency needs of this human avalanche. A huge political scandal has erupted in Rome recently with allegations that politicians of the highest levels have enriched themselves personally, while ignoring the chaos being created in their localities.
Just this week the Tiburtina station in Rome and the Central Station in Milano resemble more encampments one would normally see in third world  war torn countries, than a civilized Western metropolitan area.
All this could be elaborated at length but my reason for publishing this is mostly for my clients who entrust me to create their trips.
If you should decide to book your own trips via the internet,you will NOT be made aware of areas you should avoid while traveling. You will NOT have prior warnings about civil unrest which could ruin your vacation. You may end up choosing a  hotel or an apartment in an undesirable part of town, you may unknowingly travel on a certain train line notorious for petty theft and other criminality.
My role is to be aware of all current events and to prepare, forewarn and protect the travelers who entrust me with their trip planning.
Italy is a WONDERFUL country, it can be very safe for adults and children alike, it is obviously filled with ancient as well as contemporary  culture one can find in no other country in the world. With some suggestions and guidance from an expert, you can be helped in navigating the many restaurants and food venues safely, avoiding the ones that could disappoint and take advantage of your lack of knowledge. I may suggest you NOT rent a car in certain regions, while in others I would encourage it. I can explain why a private tour, vs a group one. My expertise is far ranging.
I have letter after letter from clients thanking me for the suggestions, the planning, the hotels chosen, the transportation arranged, and the fair pricing commensurate with the services provided.
The expertise of a good travel agent can be invaluable, the reliance on the anonymous web could be disastrous.....choose wisely!!

Hyatt with a "Z"


Hyatt Corporation's foray into the all-inclusive market began in Mexico and is now delving aggressively into other geographical locations, Jamaica being the latest.
They purchased the former Ritz Carlton, the grande dame of Montego Bay, and worked feverishly to transform it into their "Z" branded resort.
All good intentions aside, what has emerged is a mix of new and old, with enough categories to confuse everyone, including travel professionals.
First, let's distinguish between the names: Ziva is family inclusive, while Zilara is adults only. Simple enough, right? Well...not so much.

Hyatt Ziva occupies the physical space of the former Ritz Carlton. The decor is mostly unchanged, except an almost undistinguishable face lift.  The rooms are spacious, the bathrooms marble, but the furnishings along with the hallways and elevators are reminiscent of the past, rather than the future. With the addition of a brand new building offering more modern and therefore contemporary accommodations, it has created a new option which will please those like myself, who enjoy the modern and fresh, with lighter wall and furniture as well as fabrics in monochromatic and more subtle colors.
This new building faces a courtyard with comfortable lounge style seating , a bar in the center as well as the majority of the restaurants serving both Ziva and Zilara guests.
Zilara guests, therefore, have to ambulate to Ziva for most of their dining.

Hyatt Zilara, is mostly new construction, and is accessible from Ziva both via a maze of internal corridors and elevators as well as from exterior passages.
Any adult residing in Ziva has full access to Zilara, except for the scarce dining venues there, where one's room number will determine one's admittance.
I said mostly new construction, because inexplicably, one wing of Zilara is actually a part of one of the original older buildings and shares both Ziva and Zilara rooms.
Talk about confusing. You could reserve a room at Zilara, thinking this is the newest part of the resort, and end up in an older wing, with the more traditional furnishings!
A good travel agent ( get the hint?) can help you navigate through all this!

Ziva has two large pools  one with swim up bar, and the common areas are therefore more spacious and welcoming, while Zilara has a smaller pool, also housing the ubiquitous swim up bar. But when pool exercises are taking place, there is scant room for lounging unobstructed. Ziva, with its  more expansive pool areas is a better choice, despite the younger ones frolicking about.

Let's talk beach.....or what beach?
Unfortunately there are only two small beach areas. The one in front of Zilara is quite rocky and unpleasant to the feet. The one in front of Ziva is smoother, yet quite small and shallow....almost a very large kiddie pool!  When Ritz managed this property they gave guests the option of using a nearby beach club for a better swimming experience. Hyatt does not offer that option.

The branding of any hotel product is as important to both consumers and sellers as almost any other component being offered. Hyatt , just like Ms. Minelli, went with the "Z".
Every venue in the resort therefore must have a "z" incorporated in its name.
A few examples:  Bar Fez, Italian restaurant De Roza, French restaurant Petite Pariz,
Islandz pool bar, Stirz piano bar..... See what I mean? I won't bore you with the rest, but it all becomes a bit un imaginative and contrived....oops I just saw a member of the Z Crew walking by ( yes the resort workers around the pool wear  t-shits proclaiming  their allegiance to the Z!!!!)

Food was very good overall, particularly the Italian DeRoza with its wood burning pizza oven and fresh offerings of pastas, seafood and meats.
The Brazil restaurant, a churrasqueria, not as satisfying to my personal taste. Some cuts of meat good, while others not so much.
Breakfast buffet is varied in its offerings, but ordinary at best.
Drinks seem to be mostly mediocre and watered down. Premium liquor drinks are only offered at the afore mentioned Stirz Piano bar, located in the lobby of Ziva, and at  most Zilara venues.  For an upscale resort, that is unfortunate.

What makes this resort special, are the Jamaicans themselves,  who perpetually go out of their way to acknowledge all guests and make them feel at home. They all place their right hand to their heart as they cross your path, coupled with an infectious smile and a warm greeting.
It is because of them Jamaica will always remain one of my very favorite destinations in the Caribbean. YA MON!
Hyatt has a good concept, which once refined, will enhance their brand(Z

Club Med Punta Cana
"it Takes A French Village....."

I had not visited a Club Med resort in well over 25 years, so when this recent opportunity presented itself, I immediately accepted the invitation to spend a few days at their Punta Cana location.
Arriving at the Punta Cana airport can sometimes  be both daunting and frustrating. The seemingly interminable line snakes around in a hangar like building with no air conditioning , finally spilling itself into another building, this time a thatched roof one where unsmiling officials take $10 cash from each arriving passenger, dispensing a small paper receipt, which is then checked by another "official" who tears it in half and then directs you to passport control. A mad dash for your luggage and then the search for your transfer guide, one of dozens holding hand written signs. I finally found the one I needed, holding a sign that read CLUD (sic)MED, written in bold blue marker.
However, you may experience a much smoother arrival experience, if you happen to land when yours is the only flight arriving at that particular time, as many of my fellow travelers informed me.

CLUB MED PUNTA CANA is located just a few minutes away from the airport and is located on a long stretch of pristine beach, shaded by tall palm trees and blessed with sea breezes which make the hours lounging poolside or on the beach much more tolerable and pleasant.
Unlike the Club Med resorts of yesteryear, and by that I mean the 1950's through the 1990's, the brand has evolved, modernized and upgraded in order to compete in this new world of all-inclusives  that did not exist when Club Med was busy creating the concept.
What was once a young adult camp filled with booze purchased with beads, and continual parties is now a brand that offers deluxe accommodations, private villas and activities for families and children.
In Punta Cana, you will find such a family centered resort, offering safe and organized activities catering to all ages, from 4 month old infants, to teens, divided into "baby club"  (4-23 months), "petit club"( 2-3 year olds)  "mini club" (4-10 years olds) , "pajama club" (4 month to 10 years old ...late night , at an extra fee) and even "passworld" categories for 11-17 year olds which is further subdivided appropriately by age.
The activities for children and adults seem infinite and provide something to do at every hour of the day and evening. Aside from the ubiquitous water sports, there are opportunities to play or learn to play tennis, soccer, bocce,archery, basketball, fly on a trapeze and also try other circus centric actions and contortions !  A new "Cirque du Solieil" activity center is in the works and will be completed by June, 2015.
Salsa dancing classes went on all afternoon on a deck, beachside, while others just sunbathed in tranquility under a palapa or a palm tree reading a book, sunbathing or people watching.
Last week while I was there, 69% of the visitors where almost evenly divided between French and Canadians, followed by Americans, Italians , Belgian, Swiss, and representatives from all parts of the world. That said the predominant language used throughout was French, closely followed by English and Spanish. I had fun using my French in communicating with the GO's as well as French speaking visitors.
The very large pool is the epicenter of the resort, flanked by a beautiful and large bar with lounge style seating perched several steps higher than the pool deck. This is the gathering place every evening before and after dinner, with piped music as well as lively DJ action with nightly line dancing straight out of the Club Med play book ( I remember those line dances a few decades ago when visiting a Club Med in Playa Blanca, near Puerto Vallarta).... Not much has changed. The Euro beat music is newer, the moves updated, time seems to have stopped but the fun is still universal!!
Of course there are nightly shows, which I confess did not have a chance to see.
Those who did, seemed to have enjoyed them tremendously!
Meals are all buffet style, served in one of two restaurants . I must say there were surprisingly exquisite dishes offered nightly, with enough variety to please all tastes and culinary expectations. One particular evening, chefs were making fresh pasta, cutting it into perfect ribbons of fettuccine and cooking it al dente ( unheard of at any buffet I ever saw before) , and the delicate choice of sauces were not over salted and delicious. At times one could find whole grilled fish, stir fry made to order, an array of meats and seafood, soups, salads and of course desserts.  There is no waiter service, except to offer you wine, beer , water or coffee; all else is self serve.
The rooms are basic and certainly not as luxurious as those one can find at other resorts. The standard rooms are motel grade and therefore basic. They seem to be located a bit further from the pool, beach and restaurants, while the deluxe rooms were better located and seemed to have a fresher feel, with upgraded amenities, a  mini refrigerator stocked with bottled water and soft drinks, also robes and slippers.
All room categories had a sitting room and small balcony or deck with seating.
There are also 32 beachfront villas with two bedrooms , in a mini gated area which boasts its own bar, snack offerings throughout the day and an infinity pool also beachfront. **** they have Nespresso machines with  a variety of pods !!
For me, personally, a super amenity!!!
The concept of this resort, unlike most others is that it is designed horizontally, alongside their private beach. If one should walk from one extreme side of the resort to the other, always beachfront, it could give you a nice aerobic workout!
While many other branded resorts may also be beachfront, their structures usually are built more inland giving clients less horizontal beach space.
All resorts have pluses and minuses. Club Med Punta Cana has many many pluses including an incredible beach, super friendly staff, tons of activities, great food overall and a real feel of European style hospitality albeit in the Caribbean.
I left out many details, but I want to leave some surprises for you to discover for yourselves on your next visit.
There are special offers periodically, so feel free to ask me and I can certainly help you become a part of the Club Med family!

Traditional Jewish Roman cuisine in Rome

 In a city of about 3.5 million people, the Jewish population in Rome is currently estimated at approximately 27.000.  By all accounts, a small number in light of the fact that this ethnic/religious group has been here over 2000 years, longer than any other community in Europe.

Sometime between the 1550's and the 1800's , the Jewish population was confined to the small geographical location in the center of Rome still called the Jewish ghetto, four gates or "Porte" defining the perimeter. This was a dark period yet one that gave rise to what is still enjoyed today as Roman Jewish street food.  During those three long centuries, they were limited in their access to many ingredients as well as the  means to prepare food, so they became experts as street vendors in the  "friggitori" style...... Therefore frying whatever they could get their hands on: carciofi alla giuda (artichokes), filetti di baccala' (codfish) , Fiori di zucca (zucchini flours), suppli' (known as rice balls elsewhere) etc.
Fast forward to 2015: you can't speak of Roman cuisine today without listing dishes from the Jewish tradition, just as you can't speak of Jewish Roman cuisine without invariably having to include the staples of Italian food. You would be surprised to find that many dishes considered typically "Italian" are actually modern reiterations from the Jewish-Roman kitchens.
I never leave Rome without having consumed at least one or more "carciofi alla giuda", a flash fried artichoke ( no batter) , with crispy leaves on the outside, yet  a tender bitter sweet heart....absolutely delicious. A sprinkle of sea salt accentuates and completes the unique taste.
One must note that despite many of the foods mentioned here are fried, they are never greasy or oily, rather they are battered in a light fluffy batter that crackles at the bite and leaves one satisfied, yet not unctuous; multiple napkins not needed!
Just this month I again enjoyed a great meal in this Roman neighborhood, located between the popular Campo dei Fiori and the banks of the River Tiber, just behind the beautiful Jewish Synagogue.  Because of the recent disturbances of late, police presence was obvious yet unobtrusive as I walked around. The many restaurants and kosher shops were bustling and filled with happy consumers and tourists alike.
Here is a partial list of some restaurants you should not miss on your next trip to Rome. These are all located on the same pedestrian street just a few steps from each other. You can certainly enjoy Roman -Jewish dishes in almost any restaurant in this city, but why not do it in the very location where they were created?
In no particular order or preference, here they are:


La Taverna Del Ghetto..Well, full disclosure, this one is a favorite!!!
Ba' Ghetto
Da Giggetto
Nonna Betta
Il Portico
Bella Carne