BUENOS AIRES: A Return to the City of Contrasts

SAN TELMO

RECOLETA CEMETERY

PALACIO DUHAU HOTEL

PALERMO SOHO

HIERRO SAN TELMO in the market

It had been a couple of decades since I first visited Buenos Aires. That initial trip was brief, as I also included stops at Iguazú Falls, Mar del Plata, and a few places in Brazil. Yet ever since, I’ve held a desire to return and truly immerse myself in the spirit of the city. A few weeks ago, I finally had that chance.

As with many things remembered fondly, expectations tend to grow over time—and sometimes, reality doesn’t quite match the memory. I remembered Buenos Aires as a large city, but I had forgotten just how sprawling it truly is. It’s a metropolis made up of distinct neighborhoods, each offering its own unique rhythm, architecture, and character. One moment you’re surrounded by sleek skyscrapers of glass and steel, and the next you’re in a district of colorful, makeshift homes or historic, manicured townhouses.

What binds the city together are its sweeping boulevards—some of the widest I’ve ever seen—lined with pedestrian walkways and leafy trees. Many of the elegant shops that once graced these avenues have been replaced by simpler storefronts selling souvenirs and household wares. Outdoor cafés, once a cornerstone of city life, now seem fewer and less lively.

But what makes Buenos Aires truly unique is its abundance of green spaces. The city feels like a lush oasis: everywhere you look there’s foliage, tropical plants, and vibrant parks. From the Botanical Gardens and the Japanese Garden to Los Bosques de Palermo and the Ecological Reserve, these spaces breathe life into the city and offset the smog and chaos of its ever-present traffic.

I began my visit with a hop-on-hop-off tour—a smart way to get oriented and decide which neighborhoods to explore more deeply. My hotel was located in Recoleta, an elegant district known for its Parisian flair. Here, boutique shops, high-end hotels, and refined restaurants abound. I stayed at the Palacio Duhau, a five-star neoclassical palace that first opened in 1934 and is now part of the Park Hyatt brand. My room was both efficient and comfortable, and the service was flawless. The hotel hummed with energy, welcoming both leisure travelers and business groups, all enveloped in a warm, understated luxury.

Just a short walk away was the Recoleta Cemetery, famous for its elaborate mausoleums and as the resting place of Argentina’s elite—including Eva Perón. A small entrance fee grants access to what feels like an open-air museum. Strangely, this historic site is surrounded by residential buildings whose windows look directly into the cemetery—a view I personally wouldn’t want every day.

Another highlight was Palermo, a vast neighborhood subdivided into areas like Palermo Soho, Palermo Hollywood, Alto Palermo, and Palermo Chico. Despite the trendy names, the vibe here is more eclectic than clearly defined. Gentrification has made Palermo a hotspot, with lively cafés, bars, and lush parks like the Rose Garden, which offers a welcome escape from the neighborhood’s energetic nightlife.

Then there’s Puerto Madero, the city’s newest district, created along the riverfront. This modern, master-planned neighborhood features sleek skyscrapers, high-end residences, and posh dining spots. Quiet by day, it transforms at night with bustling restaurants and fashionable clubs. Despite its upscale aura, it felt a bit sterile to me—and noticeably light on actual shoppers.

But my favorite neighborhood was San Telmo, which reminded me of New York’s Greenwich Village. Quaint cobblestone streets, antique shops, funky boutiques, and cozy bars give the area a distinctly bohemian feel. On Sundays, the streets come alive with market vendors, musicians, and flamenco dancers performing on nearly every corner. The heart of it all is the San Telmo Market, originally built in 1897. Once a produce market for European immigrants, it’s now a hub of culinary delights. One standout for me was Hierro San Telmo, where the grilled meats were as memorable as the warm, welcoming staff.

There’s so much more to say about this fascinating city—but instead, I’ll invite you to experience it for yourself. Walk its neighborhoods, make your own observations, and find the corners that speak to you. Whether you’re drawn to the elegance of Recoleta, the energy of Palermo, the serenity of its parks, or the soul of San Telmo—Buenos Aires has something to offer everyone.

There are countless hotels across a range of neighborhoods, and I now feel confident in recommending which might suit different travelers best. A word of caution: areas like La Boca are colorful and worth a daytime visit, but they’re not ideal after dark. As with any large city, it’s important to consider both charm and safety when choosing where to stay.

I thoroughly enjoyed my return to Buenos Aires, but next time I’d love to venture beyond the urban sprawl—perhaps to Mendoza, the heart of Argentina’s wine country, where vineyards and ranches paint a different picture of Argentine life.

Until then, hasta luego.