Roman lounges & grazing places.

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ROME.....it can be disorienting, frustrating and downright maddening sometimes trying to find a real local spot to sit, sip, knosh and chat.
There are many good ones, but also many tourist traps serving  mediocre wine and unappetizing food. "In Rome?" you say with shock in your voice. Unfortunately yes.
Every time I roam the streets of my native city I am amazed at the proliferation of touristy shops selling "made in China" trinkets, gelaterie selling artificially flavored gelato, and pubs filled with drunken students doing their best to feel like they never left home. Why? You're in the Eternal City...when in Rome, do as the Romans do.  A  cliche' perhaps, but still good advice.
With my friends and family members still living there, I am fortunate to be introduced at each visit, to the best of the best and the newest gems in the eno-gastronomic realm. Not all of these emporiums may appeal to the generic tourist, but each offer a unique culinary experience reserved for the open minded and discriminating palate not looking for the Olive Garden experience they left behind.
Sifting through the good and not so good, I have chosen just a few to introduce to you in this posting, in no particular order or preference. However, they are all located in the same central area of Rome near Piazza di Spagna ( the Spanish Steps), the premier shopping area for Italian fashion.
You've been shopping, trying on shoes, buying shirts, ties, bags gifts. Your hands are carrying multiple shopping bags and your feet hurt, you're thirsty and just a bit hungry, but not for a full dinner yet.

Tartufi & Friends is a little spot, meticulously decorated  specializing in all things truffle and of course bubbly. How bad can that be? They also sell many unique products, all based on truffles, so you can continue to shop while you indulge in their delicacies.
The place is cramped but exquisite. The feeling I had was almost of sitting in an enormous hand made piece of Luis Vuitton luggage, maybe because of the dominant colors in the decor. All  drinks and food are placed on large silver trays with leather handles...quite special! They serve Prosecco as well as champagne and Cava. Their appetizer  dishes are tasty,  small and satisfying, although one can also order dinner size meals, particularly pastas or risottos with truffles. Expensive.
Tartufi & Friends. Via Borgognona 4E. 9am-11pm

A more low key casual establishment is L'Antica Enoteca.
Bustling with locals, especially later at night, this is the closest thing to what Americans may consider a "hang out" bar. However, remember you are still in Rome, so the offerings are all locally sourced and sophisticated compared to the American idea of finger food. An array of cheeses and cured meats on a platter, offered with crusty bread is a great  pre dinner choice. Accompany it all with a glass of local wine and you are in Roman heaven. Again, because you are in Italy, the menu will also allow you to order freshly made pastas and other dishes as well.
I would choose this as a late night after dinner spot, a place to people watch, enjoy a good glass of vino or a grappa and maybe a pastry or other sweet, before ensconcing back to your hotel room.
Antica Enoteca  Via Della Croce 76b. 12pm- 1am

Another casual place I enjoyed is Sorpasso. "Wine & kitchen" Is their slogan... Therefore a true wine bar with food. Simple enough yet outstanding in its simplicity.
But it's more than that: you can stop in for a cappuccino and pastry in the morning ( please don't order cappuccino after 11am...a faux pas!)  A quick snack at lunchtime or in the afternoon. Dinner in the evening. Late snack, after hours.
All fresh, all good, all very casual.
Sorpasso. Via Properzio 31. 7:30am-1am

Normally in Italy it is best to order seafood along the coast, in towns located closest to the water, however there are always exceptions. Acquasalata is one of them. Literally meaning "salty water" this place is for fish, and only fish. Not worth ordering anything else.
The place is bright and airy, looking almost like it ought to belong somewhere on the isle of Capri, rather than the urban chaos of Rome. I seldom see the inside of restaurants in Rome, however, since sitting outside and watching the spectacle of the people walking by along with the cacophony of motorbikes, sirens, loud conversations and children playing is the real theater experience in Rome  after all.
The menu can be confusing,  so if you're uncomfortable allowing the fish monger choose for you, this may not be the place for you. Expect each dish to be fresh, simply prepared and delicious. The place is moderately expensive but refreshing glass of white wine or two will help take the edge off.
It is also a lounge, so a glass of champagne and a couple of oysters can be a nice late night reason for stopping by (€8). A bargain by Roman standards.
Acquasalata  Fish & Lounge.     Via della Croce 68/69.  9:30am-11:30pm

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And now, I want to mention a brand new addition to the Roman gastronomic scene.
I have yet to dine there since it is a recent opening, but I feel very comfortable proposing it since it comes highly recommended from my own family living in Rome, as well as local connoisseurs who know the chef and his reputation for offering the freshest, updated classic dishes with a verve for an esthetically precious presentation. This establishment is in the high end residential neighborhood of Parioli, easily reached from most center city hotels. Along with an aggressively Roman cuisine, they have an extensive and varied wine list.
I am looking forward to dining there the very next time I am in Rome. If you get there before me, please share your candid impressions with me. It is appreciated.
Big Al Food & Beverage   Viale  Parioli 79
 Cin-Cin everyone!

THE HOT SUMMER MONTHS IN ITALY...WORTH VISITING?

The fact that in ancient times there were only 10 months on the calendar, ending with Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec (respectively 7, 8, 9 and 10) raises the question...were they trying to avoid including  the brutal summer months in the ancient Roman Empire? Of course that's just a rhetorical and senseless question, but wanted to get you thinking!
The month of July, named after Julius Caesar, came into effect in 709 A.U.C. , or from the founding of Rome. In more modern terms, it was 45 B.C.
After Julius' grandnephew Augustus defeated Marc Anthony and Cleopatra and became Emperor of Rome aka as "god" (Trump is really jealous!!!!), the Roman Senate decided he too should have a month named after him. Not only did he get his own month, but they gave him 31 days, just like granduncle Julius..how even handed of them! However, in order to make this adjustment, February, which just happens to be the month of my birth, was reduced,, albeit sporadically, to just 28 days.


Now that we have some background history out of the way, let's examine the months of July and August as they relate to travel in the Mediterranean countries and more specifically Italy (or whatever little is left of the former Roman Empire).
When advising clients who  must travel in summer because of work schedules, I always suggest July over August. August has become in more modern times, the Socialist Eurozone's gift to workers.
August 15 (FERRAGOSTO), is the biggest holiday of the year and it encompasses the week before and after the 15th in most cases.
Most people get one month paid vacation and if you are left in the various urban centers at that time you will be part of one of several categories:
 a)You are unemployed and therefore cannot afford to leave
 b)You are elderly, collecting a tiny fixed pension and your families don't want to bother taking you    along for the fun and games,
c)You are part of a small group of workers in the emergency services and you drew the short straw.
d)You actually decided against all odds to remain in the urban caldron despite having the means to escape. Call the medics immediately...this one is lacking oxygen in the cranium!!


So, what's left in Rome, Florence, Venice and all other large cities? Tourists. And..more tourists.
Meanwhile the Italians are crowded like sardines covering every inch of available space on the beaches, and they are not a happy lot. Getting to the beaches meant enduring hours of endless traffic jams on highways and smaller roads leading to the sandy or rocky shores. Others, headed in the opposite directions, are headed to the hills where the cooler air offers respite from the burning sun, but encountering the very same traffic jams before arriving at their destinations.
Just as an example, a day trip from Rome to the Amalfi Coast could mean spending 10 hours in a car enjoying the view of the backs of other cars, while having a very limited time at the destination.
Maybe that's why Italians stay for a month, after arriving at their vacation destination.


Back in the cities, many will be disappointed in finding many of  their favorite restaurants closed, half the pharmacies, many family owned stores, and even some museums and monuments inaccessible because of skeleton staff. Even medical services are at a premium. Yes the streets will be less crowded and traffic lighter, but what you will miss is partly the reason you go to Italy in the first place: the cultural experience of seeing and encountering locals as they go about their daily activities, shopping in the markets, gathering at coffee shops, having their evening "passeggiate", actually hearing Italian spoken rather than the familiar American slang, or British, German, Japanese and others for that matter.


If you must go in August, plan ahead, know what to expect but most of all avail yourself of the trustworthy advice of an expert, someone, like myself, who knows the country and its nuances. There are still ways to enjoy Italy in August and avoiding some of the pitfalls and disappointments.


Buon Viaggio e....buone vacanze estive a tutti!!